The last time my husband and I were in India together was 2005. I visited India again with a girlfriend in 2011. I am happy to report that things seem to be improving in India. The streets are cleaner & there are much fewer beggars. However, thankfully everything that makes India wonderful is still here.
I always say that India awakens all 5 senses. It’s visually stunning with so many colors. It’s like walking in a moving kaleidoscope. The air is filled with smells from flowers, incense, & spices. People watching is at a premium accompanied by constantly honking horns & beating drums. Visiting temples requires you to go barefooted awakening your sense of touch. It’s nice to know this has not changed.
On our first day we visited old places located in New Delhi.
Preparing to visit the Sikh Temple, Gurudwara Shri Rakab Ganj SahibFood is prepared each day for visitors by volunteers. President’s Residence Humayun’s TombQutub Minar
On the second day we visited Old Delhi. We enjoyed walking through the bazaar and watching the local people prepare for their main national holiday Diwali.
Diwali is the “Festival of Light” & lasts for 5 days.
Beautiful wedding dresses.
Nothing like a ride through chaos.
Memorial to Gandhi.
I also became extremely popular with some local school children. This must be how celebrities feel.
At the end of our 2nd day, we enjoyed some cardamom & almond tea with our lovely guide Ruby.
For the past four days we enjoyed safari driving in Kruger National Park located in South Africa’s northeastern corner.
Kruger ranks among the largest game reserves in Africa. It covers an area of 17,576 square miles which is approximately the size of New Jersey or the country of Wales.
It took us 4 days driving many hours each day & we only saw about 1/3 of the park. We were rewarded with seeing many animals along with some new first time safari experiences.
One rare sighting was seeing a mother hyena nursing her pup on the side of the road.
Our theory is the mother hyena knows that predators don’t like being close to the road where vehicles & people are, so she felt safe nursing her pup there instead of in the bush.
The other rare sighting was a dead leopard in a tree.
Apparently it was deposited there after being killed by another leopard.
Leopards are not only very territorial m’; but also, they have very strong jaws & are excellent climbers.
Leopards are the only cats who can climb that high carrying another animal.
Like most African game parks, you get very close to the wildlife.
We enjoyed our game drives each day. Here are a few animal sightings from the past few days.
We were lucky to have half a day to explore the Ol Pejeta Conservancy wildlife park near Nanyuki. This is a private park that helps protect & conserve numerous African wild animals. With the recent rains, we were glad to have a 4×4 vehicle to maneuver the muddy roads getting to & from the park as well as within it.
Near the entrance is a nice sign marking Zero Degrees latitude on the Equator.
One unique feature at Ol Pejeta is their chimpanzee sanctuary for rescued chimps which was started in 1993 by the world’s preeminent chimp expert Jane Goodall. They currently provide a home for 2 troops totaling 40 chimpanzees.
You can get up close & personal with a blind black rhino named Baraka which means “Lucky” because he was Lucky to be rescued & cared for. He likes to be fed & to have his ears rubbed.
Here is an assortment of other animals we enjoyed watching on our game drive.
The very rare white rhino. They are protected from poachers by an electric fence.
After 3 wonderful days at the Women’s Center at the Twala Tenebo Cultural Manyatta near Il Poles, we are back in Nanyuki.
At the MEET Girls’ Mentor Retreat, we met all 14 girls who are currently in school & 8 girls who have graduated.
3 MEET graduates are in trade schools learning to become a wildlife tour guide, caterer & plumber.
And, this year, 3 MEET graduates are starting college!
These girls & young ladies are amazing people who show strong determination to do well in school & find work to support their families.
Taking notes & meeting togetherWriting thank you letters to their education supportersLiz, the MEET team leader with her newborn. Break timeGina, Rosemary and Aurora, part of the Kenya & USA leadersRosemary with some of the local Maasai womenRosemary with the staff that cooked for us during the retreat On their way homeWe had a great time!
We are enjoying time in Nanyuki with Liz Silikan who leads the in-country, on-the-ground support efforts for the charity I started to help Maasai girls attend school.
Our first time in Nanyuki was in 1984. We returned in 2010 where we did a walking safari and met many Maasai.
I liked Nanyuki so much I returned on my own in 2013 where I offered to sponsor a Maasai girl to attend secondary school. A few years later, I formed the charity Maasai Education & Empowerment Today (MEET).
To learn more go to meet5.org
MEET Board Member Aurora Lau is accompanying me on this visit & has been an invaluable asset providing insights & support.
We visited one school in Nanyuki where some girls attend.
There are many administrative, operational, & legal challenges to working in Kenya.
In addition to spending hours with a lawyer to establish MEET as a legal entity within Kenya to be able to fund raise locally, we spent some time at Western Union resolving a snafu that prevented funds being transferred from a bank in America to deposit in our local bank to pay for the girls’ tuition and room & board.
After successfully obtaining our much needed funds, we celebrated by having a “Stoney” which is short for “Stoney Tangawizi“ which is a strong ginger ale soft drink.
We made it to Kenya! Our first day in Nairobi was jam packed. The day started with watching the caretakers feed the orphaned baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.
Next, we went to feed giraffes at the Giraffe Center.
We ended the day visiting Karen Blixen’s home which is located in Karen named after her. She is the famous Danish author who wrote “Out of Africa” along with many other books.
Then we went to downtown Nairobi to shop at the Maasai Market.
Yesterday we drove north from Nairobi to Nanyuki in Laikipia Province which is located on the Equator.
I’ve always wanted to visit Seville. My oldest known maternal grandfather to leave Europe was named Antonio Gil Caesar Flores. He was born in Seville in 1719 & went to the New World with his parents in 1725. He moved to the Tejas region in New Spain which is now part of western Louisiana in the United States.
When I walked around the old city, it was very moving knowing some of these beautiful buildings were also there when he & his parents left to make a new future.
The Seville Cathedral was completed in 1519. It’s the largest Gothic church in the world.
Christopher Columbus now rests here.
The cathedral’s altar & organ.
The Giralda or Bell Tower was once a minaret for the Great Mosque when Seville was under Muslim rule during the Almohad Dynasty. Once the Christians defeated the Muslims, both the mosque & minaret were transformed into a church & bell tower containing 24 bells.
It is actually taller than Big Ben in London.
At night & during the day when I heard the bells ring, I wondered if my ancestors heard the same pealing of the bells before they left for the New World.
Another impressive old structure is the Alcazar Palace. Here is a brief history along with some images from it. Spain’s Royal family still lives in part of it when they are in Seville. It’s very beautiful & with its elegant & colorful geometric designs, it reminded me of historical homes in Isfahan, Iran.
We just so happened to be in Seville when the Latin Grammy’s were held. The night before the awards show, we saw fans lined up outside the swankiest hotel waiting for their favorite singer to appear.
The Christmas market outside the cathedral was selling items I had never seen before. All the shops were full of items not only to make a miniature nativity scene; but also, to construct the entire Bethlehem village. Much like an elaborate train set, no detail is missing. I wonder how much room these nativity scenes take up in Spanish homes at Christmas time.
Another Seville highlight was visiting the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza where bullfights are still held in the spring & summer. Started in 1760, it is Spain’s oldest bullring & took 120 years to finish. This is also where modern bullfighting that we know today originated.
We also enjoyed a few of Seville’s special food treats. One was at the Convento de San Leandro where the nuns who are completely cloistered make a very unique cookie. Fortunately, a nice Spanish couple helped us obtain the cookies which are more akin to candy than a cookie.
First, I placed money on a lazy susan contraption, rang a bell to let the nuns know we were ordering, told the nun what we wanted, then spun around the lazy susan with our payment. A few moments later the lazy susan spun again & our cookies appeared. Never once did we see a nun’s face or even a hand.
Flamenco dancing is very popular in Seville. We didn’t make it to the Flamenco Museum or see a show; but, we saw stores selling the clothes. Fans are sold everywhere.
I’m very puzzled why Spain as well as all of Europe now has Black Friday sales? I thought that was strictly Kim an American thing. 🧐
Interesting buildings both old & new can be seen throughout the city. And, of course, Seville has some street performers.
Before leaving the city, we walked along the Guadalquivir River.
After the New World was discovered, Seville’s port became Spain’s economic center. Seville thrived in the 16th & 17th Centuries until Cadiz became Spain’s main port.
Even though Seville was past it’s hey day when my grandfather lived there, I’m sure it was still a vibrant city. Moving to the New World would have been a really big change for a young boy.
Seville is a wonderful old historical city. Even though Seville is known as being the hottest major city in Europe, I’m happy to see it is now a popular tourist locale. A perfect place to be in autumn or spring when the temperatures are pleasantly warm.
Many streets & squares are lined with orange trees and reminders from the past mix beautifully with the present here.
[Sorry, didn’t realize this hadn’t been published after day 25. Hope you still enjoy the entry.]
Camino: Day 26
Distance: 24.7 KM (15.3 miles)
Weather: partly cloudy, 45-60°
Time on trail: 7 hours and 50 minutes including all breaks & stops
The day started with a a lovely breakfast including fresh squeezed orange juice, tea, & a Spanish pastry called a Napolitana.
After yesterday’s very long hike which took many hours to descend a steep rocky slope in the rain, today felt like a real gift.
The weather was close to perfect for a fall day. It was mostly flat terrain until the last 5-6 KM.
As we left Ponferrada, we walked past the most perfect castle & a lovely church.
The walk out of Ponferrada was enjoyable, even though it took over 2 hours to reach the countryside.
While we were walking , we had a nice conversation with 2 young Italians. They were doing the entire Camino in 12 days less than us, hiking over 30 KM each day. The woman was actually going faster than the man.
On hearing how fast they were going, we gave them fist bumps. Later they asked how old we were. When we told them 64 & 65, the young man was so surprised he gave us fist bumps! I’ll take the compliment. 🤭
Our stops for the next 10 daysHalloween in Spain New symbol for the trailHome Depot Spanish styleChurch providing stamps for our pilgrim passport Stop over for a mid-morning snack
In the first small town we walked through, we came across a popular pilgrim stop. I was very happy to see my friend from Mexico again. It had been 10 days since I last saw her.
Throughout today’s walk we passed pleasant vineyards & quaint villages. We are also now less than 200 KM away from Santiago.
25 days ago, it was over 770 KM to Santiago. Where have all the KM gone? (I think my feet & legs know) Man hand carving scallop shellsCommon cute window decorations This old church is now an albergue during high season
We also enjoyed many murals & poems today.
The last 1.5 hours before reaching Villafranca del Bierzo was stunning. Vineyards in the fall are spectacular. I took many pictures with both my phone & camera.
Villafranca was once famous in the 15th Century for providing sick & crippled pilgrims with their Pilgrim certificate if they felt they could not make the next 150+ KM to Santiago.
Villafranca is a lovely old town where we enjoyed pizza & Halloween night with the local children dressed up in scary costumes.
Doesn’t he look like a Spanish Eugene Levy 😂Crazy Spanish kids at our restaurant Our hotel
Tomorrow is our last 30 KM hiking day. Hopefully, it won’t be too difficult & the rain will stay away until we arrive.
Time on trail: 9 hours 40 minutes counting all breaks & stops
Do you remember this from “My Fair Lady?”
I’m can assure you, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly in the plain. You will notice by our attire, today was blue skies- rain- repeat.
Since the sun was shining this morning, many pilgrims joined the trail by 8:30.
When are you coming out?Getting a stamp in our pilgrim passport Typical trail today
10:30 café con leche & tortilla break
Back on the trail.
River crossingRainbow sighting Our Spanish friends’ dog Hela on the trail; he even has his own pilgrim passport
Around noon we reached Melide.
Melide is famous for various food items.
Melindres are a local sweet which are like a small, sweet, sugar coated biscuitMelide has the reputation for having the best pulpo (octopus) in Spain
And some very unique cheese.
As the story goes:
Legend has it a statue showing Queen Esther with large breasts was placed in the Portica de Glorias façade in the Santiago cathedral in 1168 to 1188. Directly opposite facing Esther a statue of the prophet Daniel was placed & it was sporting a big grin. Scandalized by such a display, priest and church leaders ordered a breast reduction be done to Queen Esther, so her statue’s breasts were smoothed flat. To protest this change, farmers started making cheese shaped like a breast with a nipple, so the cheese became known as “Tetilla” means “little breast”.
Melide also has the oldest stone cross on the Camino in Galicia dating from the 14th Century.
With the sun shining, we enjoyed lunch on a city bench in Melide.
Sadly, the sunny weather ended soon after lunch; but, we still enjoyed our rainy afternoon walk.
I was happy to encounter a volunteer stop. There have been far fewer of these in the last third part on the Camino.
With the on & off again rainy weather, it was a relief to arrive into Arzua. For dinner, we enjoyed the best pizza we have had in Spain.
My first Sangria on the trip
The pizza place had pilgrim graffiti all over its walls. This one caught our eye since we have experienced this problem. But mostly me!! 😆
Happy to have our last long hiking day done before reaching Santiago.
Weather: cloudy with small amounts of rain, 43-53°
Time on trail: 7.5 hours including all breaks & stops
Once in awhile I feel strong & walking comes easy. Today was one of those days.
Most of the day we hiked through a narrow valley above the Rio Valcárce. Then the last few hours was a steep climb up to O Cebreiro. Thankfully we arrived at 4:00 just before the rain started.
We left our hotel at 8:30. Villafranca is such a lovely town, so I had to take a few more pictures before leaving.
Last view of Villafranca
Around 10:30, it was time for a coffee & baño break.
Most of the day we hiked under chestnut trees. The ground was littered with chestnuts ready to be gathered & roasted for the Christmas holidays.
For the next few hours we hiked through many small villages.
Man breaking walnut shellsFunny greeter Sheep dog attending its flockGetting ready for possible rain
Mileage markers to keep us going.
If you zoom in you will see how far we have come and how far we still need to go to reach Santiago.
For the past 2 days we have been often serenaded by the “tinkle, tinkle” noise from cow bells.
A few villages also had many chickens roaming the town.
Along the trail you not only see messages written on rocks & signs; but also, tied on a tree.
Starting around 1:30, we began a long uphill climb that lasted for the next 2.5 hours.
After we passed La Faba, the countryside began to change.
About 35 minutes before reaching O Cebreiro, we passed into Galicia.
Also, we reached the official mileage/km marker putting us at 160.948 KM to go!
We walked into the very lovely, old, & historical village O Cebreiro only mere minutes before it started raining.
Even the trash cans are cute
More information about the town & church.
This town is also known for its goat cheese that is shaped like a chef’s hat. My husband enjoyed some with some honey for his dessert.
Most towns on the Camino offer a pilgrim’s menu. You can pick one dish from each course & also wine for 13-16€. Such a bargain!
The Wanderers 