Finding “The Way” on the Camino

The Camino might actually be the most well marked trail in the world. Maps aren’t usually necessary. We mainly refer to ours to know how much further to the next village.

Even though we are doing the popular French Route, we have been told by pilgrims that all the routes are marked in the same way.

Just look for the yellow arrow or scallop shell to find the way. You can also just follow your fellow pilgrims which are usually nearby.

HORNILLOS – CASTROJERIZ

Camino: Day 14

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: rainy & high winds, 49-59°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 20 minutes

2nd Weekly total: 162 KM (100.6 miles)

Grand total: 334 KM (207.5 miles)

We have now survived our first rainy day on the Camino. We started out wearing our rain jackets, rain paints and rain ponchos and never took them off.

The meseta was also true to form by having consistent high winds most of the day and especially the last 1km.

After 2 hours and 40 minutes we were happy to make it to Hontanas for a nice break.

We are making progress.

Not long after Hontanas it started to rain again and never stopped.

About 5 KM (3.1 miles) later we reached the San Anton ruins in the pouring rain.

For years food & drink has been left in these portals for the passing pilgrims. Now a nice volunteer & resting spot is located inside.

The Tau Cross is also shown here.

In the pouring rain and very high winds, we made the last 4 KM (2.4 miles) to Castrojeriz.

Like the sign on the highway. We were happy to be at our hotel.

BURGOS – HORNILLOS DEL CAMINO

Route Information

Camino: Day 13

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: rainy, cloudy & very windy, 57-67°

Time on route: 6 hours including breaks

Burgos was a lovely surprise. We had not expected to find it so interesting and charming. There is much more we could have explored.

With the rain prediction we decided to enjoy a late breakfast and exited our hotel around 8:30. Even though the rain was light, we still thought it was best to put on our ponchos

It is the first large city we have walked through without clear markings for the trail. Thankfully my husband had a guide book that helped us find our way.

Because the Camino is a pilgrimage the trail always takes you by a church.

Beautiful mural behind the cathedral.

In 2021 Burgos had an art exhibit promoting the Camino with 39 silhouettes. We spotted many as we continued to walk through the city. Unlike yesterday’s entry into Burgos, the exit was very pleasant.

I had hoped I would meet people from around the world on this pilgrimage.

As I have mentioned on past postings I have become friends with two young Korean women. We are unable to say much to each other, but always smile & hug when we meet on the trail each day.

I also have a short chat each day with a young woman from Italy and another from Mexico. They are short friendships, but all feel very special.

Others we have only met briefly and always wave when we pass.

We finally have less than 500 KM to go.

We made a cafe con leche & bathroom break in Tardajos.

A short time later we pass through Rabe de Las Calzadas. It was a charming little town filled with colorful religious murals.

We have reached the meseta. A large plateau that covers 81,000 square miles (210,000 sq KM). It is known for its extreme weather. Hot in the summer & cold in the winter. It will take us 9 days to cross it.

I love it’s vast landscape and big sky in spite of the high winds.

Only one more mile to go to reach Hornillos.

The best part about the meseta is that it follows the exact same route used by all pilgrims since Queen Isabella. It will feel like walking within history.

ATAPUERCA to BURGOS

Route Information (We left from ATAPUERCA)

Camino: Day 12 (stage one completed)

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy & windy, 57-70°

Time on trail: 4 hours 40 minutes

Total distance: 293 KM (182 miles)

After a pleasant stay at an old hotel with quaint wood beams and rustic wooden doors we headed for the Camino trail at 8:00.

Thankfully a few fellow pilgrims were leaving at the same time showing us the way in the darkness.

This was our last day in the mountainous-hilly region of the Camino. Tomorrow we will start walking the flat section.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we reached the Matagrande summit.

At the top we came across this beautiful poem.

Since the pilgrim dominated the mountains of Navarre and saw the vast fields of Spain. She has not enjoyed a more beautiful sight like this.

In the far distance we could see our final destination for the day, the city of Burgos.

Fun sightings

A special thing about walking the Camino is the “Buen Camino,” greeting you receive from fellow pilgrims and the locals. You also see it at homes as you walk along.

Cleaver way to display flowers & recycle garbage.

Small building dating from 1588

After many km/miles walking on the tarmac we approached the outskirts of Burgos, passed the airport & industrial section. It wasn’t my favorite.

We did see this one funny sign.

Ummmm, not sure I want a shower toilet.

Finally reached Burgos after an hour.

Camino signs & other sightings

After our earliest arrival time, we enjoyed doing a little touring of Burgos.

Casa del Cordón, Christopher Columbus was welcomed here by Queen Isabella & King Ferdinand after his return from the second trip to America.

Visiting the Cathedral de Santa Maria was the highlight of Borgos.

It is made up of many small chapels inside with beautiful ceilings. It also contains the tomb for El Cid and his wife.

Just another great day on the Camino.

PAMPLONA – PUENTE LA REINA

Route Information (we travel from right to left)

Camino: Day 4

Weather: sunny, 52-83 degrees

Distance: 24 km (15 miles)

Time on trail: 6.75 hours (includes lunch & water breaks)

We left Pamplona close to 8:00. Saw many parents walking their children to school.

Once we left the city we could easily see our route for the next few hours.

The gravel trail took us across dry and freshly plowed farmland.

We then began our gradual climb up to Mount El Perdón. Once at the top you can see Pamplona in the distance and where the path will take you the rest of the day.

At the top, you find one of most photographed locations on the Camino.

Information on the sculpture.

More image along the route.

We arrived in Puente La Reina close to 4:00 pm. I was ready to stop. The last hour continues to be difficult. The mornings seem to fly by. Around 11:00 we had walked over 6 miles that felt easy, but as the day warms and feet become tired you finish on pure will power.

After some rest and a nice shower we enjoyed the end of our day in Puente La Reina. It’s know for its famous Puente Romanesque Bridge built in the 11th century and roasted spicy hot peppers.

RONCESVALLES – ZUBIRI

Today’s Information

Camino: Day 2

Distance: 20.7 km (12.8 miles)

Weather: sunny, 55-83 degrees

Time on trail: 7 hours

We started off almost at the same time around 8:10am. It was cool. I needed a jacket and my quilted vest.

The sun was just coming up as we left our hotel. After taking a few photos it was time to get started.

As we were walking through the forest we could hear cows mooing in the distance. They had a lonesome sound. I joked with my husband it wasn’t cows but witches. He thought it was a different forest on the Camino route, but as we exited we learned I was correct.

We passed through 3 lovely villages during the day.

So wish I could have fresh bread like this delivered to my home daily.

Images along the way.

We had 2 mountain passes to go over, but much easier than the first day. Like the day before, coming down is much harder than going up.

Made it to Zubiri with time to do laundry and work on this blog.