Camino: Day 28

Distance: 20.8 KM (13 miles)

Weather: cold, rain, snow, sleet; 39-55°

Time on trail: 7.5 hours with long breaks k

What a difference a day makes. We saw the dreadful forecast; but, hoped it wasn’t true because some forecasts have been way off.

So, before leaving we enjoyed a warm cozy breakfast at our inn.

I then put on 3 layers on the bottom & 8 layers on top because freezing temperatures were forecasted along with snow!!!

We were not overly eager to start, so we left at 8:50.

Initially, it looked like the forecast had been wrong. It was in the low 40s & not raining. It wasn’t long before I was too hot and needed to stuff my knit hat & puff jacket into my backpack.

I kept my rain poncho on in case it started to rain & within 30 minutes a light rain began.

As we started the gradual climb up San Roque, I noticed the rain was turning to sleet. Then SNOW!!! We never expected to experience snow on this trip. Just 4 weeks ago, it was in the 90°s, so we experienced all four seasons in one month’s time.

As we drove on through the snow & high winds, I thought about the Pony Express motto.

Never has a rest stop & café con leche ever been so welcomed.

By the time we resumed the trail, it looked like every kids’ & Bing Crosby’s dream on Christmas morning.

We moved on hoping conditions would improve. From time to time, it would let up; but, at other times, we were pummeled with tiny ice crystals.

When we reached the hill crest, we were tempted to step inside another warm bar; but, we elected to keep moving to get to lower altitudes & warmer temperatures.

A few KMs later we arrived at Fonfria. My water resistant gloves were totally soaked & I could feel water in my waterproof boots, so another stop was needed. I put my wet gloves by the stove to dry a bit & enjoyed some nice warm chickpea soup.

Once I was warmer & my gloves a smidge dryer, it was time to finish the last 9 KM (5.5 miles).

Thankfully, it stopped snowing & we were headed down to lower elevations with no snow.

Along the way, we came across this very old church dating back to medieval times.

Right before reaching Triacastela, we walked through another ancient village called Ramil which has a huge chestnut tree that is over 800 years old.

What a day!!! One for the record books for us. It felt really good to reach today’s destination.

What a way to finish Week 4 on the Camino. Our distance grand total is 643 KM (399.5 miles)! Our last week to Santiago starts tomorrow. 😊

Camino: Day 25

Distance: 32.2 KM (20 miles)

Weather: cloudy, partly sunny, overcast, rain, 38-50°

Time on trail: 10 hours including breaks

This was a long; but, still very enjoyable day. We experienced all kinds of weather from warm to cold & rainy.

We were expecting cold temperatures when we left , so we both had on extra layers.

When we left at 8:40, we were greeted with a friendly dog and the sunrise.

Except for the weather, today was similar to the first day with an uphill climb and a very long & rocky downhill. Thankfully today was much cooler and the uphill much shorter. However, the rain added some difficulty negotiating the slippery, rugged path.

Here are a few images from the beginning of the day.

We reached the highest point on the Camino which is called Cruz de Ferro. Traditionally you are to bring a rock from home & leave it at the top along with your worries. However, many people leave tokens to remember their loved ones.

We left 2 rocks painted by our great niece before we left.

It was very cold on the peak & we were glad we wore our extra layers as we started our long downward hill climb that took several hours.

Here are a few images from our downhill climb. About half way down, it started to rain again, so back on went my rain poncho aka “the witch costume”.

We enjoyed a lovely stop in El Arcebo. They played music from the 1920s while we warmed up.

Sights along the way.

The last rest stop for the day was in Molinseca which is a lovely town..

We then had 4+ miles to reach our hotel in Ponferrada. With the recent time change, we made it right after sunset.

Very thankful this is our only 20 mile day.

Camino: Day 24

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy to partly sunny (45-52°)

Time on trail: 5 hours 20 minutes including breaks

Thankfully the rain had ceased by the time we left the hotel around 9:00.

Spain turned back their clocks last night. I felt well rested after getting an extra hour of sleep.

As we passed through town we enjoyed the bell tower chimes.

I enjoyed seeing one more mural before we left town. The artist who did the 3 murals in Astorga was extremely talented. I find the ability to paint on a grand scale remarkable.

Today we walked through an area called Maragateria and entered the mountains of Leon. Our first stop was at Murias de Rexhivaldo.

After a few hours it is always nice to make a short rest stop for refreshments & a baño.

After a little rain, it turned out to be the most pleasant day. No wind & the perfect temperature for hiking.

We came across this man selling Camino wares for pilgrims. I was happy to give him a little business.

Our next stop around noon was in El Ganso that seemed to have an American West Theme going.

While we took a 10 minute break outside the bar, we saw a young French Canadian girl that we met 20 days ago & hadn’t seen her since then.

After a short chat on how things were going we noticed she was with a young man we hadn’t seen before. A short distance from us they joined hands & kissed. The Camino is known for starting romances. 💕

Today we actually saw many new people. Some of them appeared to be struggling. Not surprising since many people join the Camino in Leon & Astorga to avoid the Meseta. I feel for them. We call them “Newbies.”

Another change in the trail is more crosses.

A great deal of today was hiking through an oak tree forest.

The last few miles were uphill to Rabanal del Camino. Most the way we had a wire fence to one side covered with stick crosses.

It’s always nice to arrive at your destination for the day. Rabanal is a lovely little village that might not exist without the pilgrims passing through it.

Even though we are not in the high mountains, it has the feel of a small village in the alps.

We will need a good rest tonight. Tomorrow will be our longest daily distance on the Camino.

I’m sure our lemon chocolate from Astorga will help get us through the day. 😉

Camino: Day 23

Distance: 21.9 KM (13.6 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, 44-59°

Time on trail: 5 hours 45 minutes along with many stops

We enjoyed a nice quiet breakfast at our home stay and left around 8:45.

Once again, another spectacular sunrise.

A little less than 3 miles later we came to the historical town, Hospital de Orbigo.

As we were walking into town, we saw 2 storks high in a nest.

This town is known for its 300 meter long medieval bridge along with its famed legend of Don Suero.

Here is one more version of the story of Don Suero.

In the next town it was time for a café con leche and bathroom break.

A few sights along the way.

On the trail we saw a man collecting herbs. We asked for a picture and he gave me a large bunch. It was Thyme Vulgaris. He told me it was good as a tea with honey to soothe a sore throat.

About 4 miles before we reached Astorga, we came across another rest stop staffed by volunteers. This one was maintained by a young German woman.

Some young French people were enjoying the shelter and singing songs.

As nice as the shelter was, it was time to get into Astorga before the rain started…again.

A special multi-tier walkway helps pilgrims get safely over the train tracks.

Only a few minutes from our hotel we stopped to take this picture. We then heard this man playing his guitar. When I gave him a few dollars he gave us an entertaining performance about Americans walking the Camino.

Astorga is known for making chocolate. We enjoyed a visit to the Chocolate Museum.

Other Astorga sights.

Today we said goodbye to the flat plains for good & once again returned to tall rolling hills.

Compared to yesterday, we saw more pilgrims along the way today as well as an uptick in activity along the way. Once again the trail is decorated with murals & comical figures and there are stops manned by volunteers along the route.

I enjoyed the Meseta; but, I am glad to see more villages & sights geared toward the pilgrims passing through the area.

Camino: Day 22

Distance: 30.9 KM (19.1 miles)

Weather: rain to partly cloudy with some wind, 45-56°

Time on trail: 9.5 hours with many breaks

Knowing it was supposed to stop raining after 10:00 and sunrise was at 8:45, we didn’t leave until 9:00.

Yesterday we walked almost the whole way without stopping. I vowed not to do that again since I was exhausted when we arrived. Plus, this was going to be our longest day so far with a full 19 miles to walk.

It took us over 1.5 hours to walk out of Leon. On the way, we saw this display from Mexico showing decorated skeleton heads.

Before reaching the countryside, we walked through Virgin del Camino that has a church with a famous legend.

As before, there is more than one path to take. We chose the path away from the major highway which took us to Villavante. As we headed out, a trail friend caught us in her pictures and sent it to me.

Once starting on our path, we didn’t see another pilgrim until we stopped in Villar de Mazarife.

Before walking the last 9 KM (5.5 miles), we enjoyed a nice long rest in Villar de Mazarife. It was in the local bar that we finally met another pilgrim from Canada.

Thanks to our constant breaks today, we completed 19 miles on the trail & finally arrived in Villavante.

Up until this point we have only stayed in hotels. Tonight we are staying in a beautiful home belonging to a lovely couple. They converted a mill into their home which is built over a river.

We enjoyed a muy delicious meal next to a warm fire.

Before heading to bed, my husband tried his best to dry out his wet shoes. 😉

Camino: Day 21

Distance: 19 km ( 11.8 miles)

Weather: rain, 47-58°

Time on trail: 4 hours 45 minutes including all stops

Before we started, we enjoyed breakfast at a local bar. It was quiet at 7:30 in the morning. Only a few pilgrims & locals stopped in.

It was a very wet day with constant rain for most of the walk into Leon.

A few interesting sites along the way.

Very ready to reach Leon and our hotel around 12:45. Rain gear only works so long before you start to get wet.

Once dried & rested, we enjoyed walking around Leon. It’s a beautiful old European city.

The main attraction in Leon is its beautiful gothic cathedral. It is easy to see why.

Hard to believe we have finished another week on the trail. We have now walked over 474 KM (294.5 miles.)

I wish I could say that it has gotten easier; along the way; but, each day has its own different struggles. It has been an incredible experience to walk 14 miles per day for 21 consecutive days.

Each day the view changes. You also see friends from past days & wonder about those you haven’t seen for a while. Time still moves quickly on the Camino; but, in a different way.

Camino: Day 20

Distance: 19 Km ( 11.8 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 49-58°

Time on trail: 5 hours including breaks

We welcomed our day with this glorious sunrise.

As we left town we noticed the church steeple had 2 large white stork nests waiting for the birds to return next spring.

As we walked, we passed these familiar crosses. I enjoy reading the messages left by pilgrims.

I loved this message left for friends who were further behind on the trail.

Many people take rest days on the Camino while others do not. With pilgrims walking at different paces, the saddest part on the Camino is no longer seeing friends you have made along the way. But then, you make new ones.

Here is a young Korean girl we met in the past few days. She speaks good English so we are able to have nice conversations.

I believe she is hiking on her own; but, with her friendly personality, she has no problem making friends.

Around 11:30 & past the half way point, we came into the small town named Reliegos.

I was hungry, thirsty, & needed a bathroom break, so it was perfect timing to find this small bar. By the time we left, it was full of pilgrims inside & out.

Reliegos is a cute town and feels like a tiny Santa Fe, NM. It’s known for its tomatoes. A meteorite also fell here in 1947.

A little less than 2 hours later we arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas.

This small town dates back to Roman times. In 70AD, the Romans built a wall around the city. Parts still exist today.

In the 11th & 12 Centuries, Mansilla was the largest & richest market town in this region, especially for livestock which explains its name “de las mulas” (of the mules.)

Mansilla has always been a major stop for pilgrims walking the French route. Although its grandeur has faded, it’s still a lovely place for pilgrims today.

After a short rest in our hotel, we took a stroll around town in the light rain.

Tomorrow will be our last day walking the Meseta which ends the 2nd major stage on the French Camino.

Camino: Day 19

Distance: 17 KM (10.5 miles)

Weather: cloudy & rainy with some wind, 40-54°

Time on trail: 5 hours including breaks

With rain forecasted, we left the hotel around 8:20 already wearing our rain gear.

As we walked out of Sahagun, we saw more murals.

We also saw the Monastery of San Benito el Real from which the only Neoclassical arch still remains.

The only long stop we made along the way was in Bercianos Del Real Camino.

After a few hours in the rain, I was ready for a cafe con leche. After we removed our wet ponchos, I ordered my coffee and a freshly made chocolate croissants.

It was a lovely bar with a fire and nice American music playing.

However, I’m sure the young people in the bar had never heard these songs (Paul Simon- 50 Ways to Leave Your Lover and Joe Cocker & Jennifer Warnes- Up Where We Belong).

Then it was time to gear up again and return to the trail.

We have been very surprised by the cold weather. We didn’t expect to ever hike in 40° weather in Spain. Thankfully, we both packed clothes to cover this contingency.

Check out the cool water proof gloves on the table. Cheap but effective! 🤣 I hope no one asks us to wash dishes

Bercianos is a lovely little village with a few homes and buildings made from clay & straw in the adobe style. They appear to be very old. The fact they are still standing proves this area gets little water. Lucky us to experience it. 😂

After taking the above pictures, a local women started a conversation with us. The fact that I actually sometimes knew what she was saying gives me confidence to continue my Duolingo lessons.

A few sightings before leaving town.

Most of the path today was down a path beneath trees on one side. I called it the Camino Avenue de Árboles.

During the summer months this area can easily reach over 100°. I’m wondering if the trees were planted to provide pilgrims with some shade on hot days. We enjoyed the protection it provided from the rain & wind.

Two hours after leaving the warm cozy bar we arrived at our destination for today: El Burgo Ranero.

It was nice to have a short day. Even with the rain, it was pleasant walk.

Camino: Day 17

Distance: 17 KM (10.5 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, 42-58°

Time on trail: 4.25 hours including stops

HALF WAY THERE!

Since it was going to be a short day with good weather in the forecast, we got started around 9:00.

It was an absolutely perfect day. We started out with many layers, but kept shedding a layer every hour or so. No rain or high winds. Perfect!

Our hotel did not provide breakfast so we enjoyed our tea & toast with the locals.

It was Sunday morning and a few men came into the bar dressed in camouflage. They appeared to be getting a cup of coffee before going bird hunting.

Outside one man was pulling a small trailer behind his car for his hunting dog. Unlike in America, few people own pickup trucks.

Later, we saw men out hunting. All along the Camino we have seen signs on property saying it was reserved for hunting. Appears to be a popular local sport.

As we left Carrion, we passed over another beautiful bridge and walked pass the San Zoilo Monastery which dates back to 948!

Once we left Carrion, we were once again walking along the same road used by Santiago pilgrims for over a 1,000 years.

Most of today’s route was on the Via Aquitana which was built flat & straight by the Romans.

At the half way point we came across a very lovely pop-up outdoor cafe. I enjoyed a café con leche & coconut cake. I think the cake was actually good enough for a Paul Hollywood handshake.

An hour later, off came my jacket & vest. How lucky to have such a nice day on the meseta. Almost too bad it was a short walking day.

At the same time, my right leg still hurt, so it’s always nice to have some shorter days to help me to recover.

Pilgrim taking a break along the way.

We arrived into Calzadilla around 1:15 pm.

Hard to believe we have been walking for 17 days & have 17 more days to go before reaching Santiago.

We have walked 395 KM (245 miles). We average 14 miles a day. Usually around 2 mph including our various stops en route.

It’s been a wonderful experience!

Camino: Day 16

Distance: 19 KM (11.8 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, moderate wind, 39-50°

Time on trail: 5.2 hours including breaks

Since it is no longer hot and the sun continues to come up later, we see no reason to start before 8:30.

This morning it was very cold. Once again I had on 5 layers on my torso and 2 layers on my legs. We weren’t expecting it to be this cold this early during the hike.

We were very happy to see the sun get up high in the sky. After one very rainy day followed by one super windy day , I was looking forward to a day with neither.

Unfortunately, the Camino has a way of reminding you this isn’t supposed to be easy. Today was actually the first day I walked in pain.

With flat land I felt I could pickup my pace and make good progress. After doing this for the first few hours, my right shin began to ache. By noon I needed good ole vitamin I (ibuprofen) to finish the last 4 miles.

The first village we passed today was Problacion de Campos.

From here we had 2 choices to make: Walk next to the river or the highway. We chose the river.

As we walked, all I could think was how much this landscape looked like the Texas Panhandle landscape where I grew up.

As you walk along there are constant reminders you are on the Camino De Santiago.

After passing a few villages the pain in my right leg intensified. I was happy to see this lone church up ahead for a chance to rest.

The last large village before Carrion de los Condes was Villalcazar de Sirga. We still needed to walk another 3+ miles. Perfect time to visit a bar for a cafe con leche.

To my surprise my 2 Korean friends were there as well having lunch.

After a few pictures of the local church, it was time to finish up the day.

As we were walking through the village a door was open. I saw that a woman was working on a lace piece. She let me take a picture, but not of her. I so wish I spoke more Spanish because she wanted to tell me about what she was doing and explain the pictures on her wall.

This is a typical street in these small villages on the meseta.

We then joined the pathway next to the highway leading us into Carrion de los Condes which is our home for the night.

For the past few days we have walked with this young woman from China who recently moved to Spain. Her English is excellent and I enjoy our daily conversations.

Today I told her she had to watch the movie “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly” because it was made in Spain.

Westerns movies could still be made here without a problem.

Tomorrow we will hit our half way mark and go below 400 KM to reach Santiago.

“Buen Camino”