Driving South Africa’s Garden Route

For 5 days, we enjoyed exploring South Africa’s Western Cape along the Garden Route.

Day 1

We took a a short boat ride to see a very large seal colony at Hout Bay.

Upon our return, the boat was greeted by a band that looked like they belonged in New Orleans along with a friendly seal.

Before sunset we made it to Africa’s Southernmost tip at Point Agulhas which is where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic Ocean & vice versa.

A funny sign in L’Agulhas.

Day 2

This was mostly a driving day from L’Agulhas to Knysna (pronounced Nice-nah). Knysna is nice-ah! Due to strong winds, our nature walk there was postponed until the next morning.

Knysna Harbor- Featherbed Nature Preserve across the water

Day 3

In the morning we enjoyed a lovely nature walk at the Featherbed Nature Preserve.

With all the verdant scenery, it was hard to believe that most vegetation on this island was destroyed by a fire only 7 years ago.

At the beginning of our hike we were given slingshots to shoot seed pods down the hill to help replenish the native plants.

Due to the rocks, currents & tides, as well as not having modern navigation devices, the harbor entry was rated as the most difficult in the world to navigate.

After this lovely morning hike, we visited the Knysna Elephant Park that helps orphaned & injured elephants.

At the park , you are given a chance to feed & walk with the elephants.

We were lucky to have our picture taken with Sally. She is the 34 year old matriarch & the oldest elephant at the park. She now teaches the young elephants how to survive.

Day 4

Before starting this day, I had a lovely breakfast at the cute Roadside Cafe restaurant in Plettenberg Bay which has a plant nursery as well as a petting zoo.

I had a very filling breakfast to prepare me for the 7 mile hike around the Robberg Nature Reserve.

The views around the reserve were spectacular which included being able to see various seal colonies from high above on the cliffs.

After passing the half way mark on fairly easy trails, the path involved bouldering having to scramble over & climb many rocks for over a mile. Thankfully, we made it through that rough stretch without any turned ankles or falls.

An hour before sunset we made it to Jeffery’s Bay. This town was made famous in the 1960s documentary movie “Endless Summer” which is about surfers 🏄 who travel the world surfing at various beaches all year long.

Jeffrey’s Bay sunset

Day 5

Our last Garden Route day involved watching a few surfers at the beach & visiting the Birds of Eden bird sanctuary.

From the first moment we entered the sanctuary, we saw birds up close. This large facility allowed us to observe many species for a few hours.

My husband has an unusual hobby. He likes to do bungee jumps around the world when possible. He has now bungy jumped in New Zealand, Zimbabwe, Greece, & now South Africa.

He jumped off the Boukrans Bridge which at 216 meters (709 feet) high is the highest bridge in Africa & the world’s 3rd highest bungy jump.

As we left the Garden Route, we drove off into a beautiful sunset heading for the Karoo region.

Cape Town, South Africa

Cape Town is South Africa’s oldest city & as such is known in the country as “The Mother City”.

It is South Africa’s 2nd largest city after Johannesburg.

The German anthropologist Theophilus Hahn recorded that the area’s original name was ‘Hui ! Gais‘ from the indigenous Khoi language meaning “Where clouds gather.”

Indeed, the week we were in Cape Town, Table Mountain was often covered by clouds.

Portuguese mariner & explorer Bartolomeu Dias was the 1st European to reach the area in 1488 & named it the “Cape of Storms.” King John II of Portugal renamed it the “Cape of Good Hope” because it opened a new trade route to the East Indies after the Ottoman Empire cut the overland routes to Europe.

Today you can visit the Castle of Good Hope not far from the bus station.

It was built by the Dutch East India Company between 1666 and 1679. The Castle is the oldest existing building in South Africa.

Another historic attraction to visit is Robben Island where political prisoners such as Nelson Mandela were imprisoned. Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years as a political prisoner on this island.

It takes its name from the Dutch word for seals (robben); hence, the Dutch/Afrikaans name Robbeneiland which translates to Seal(s) Island.

The island tour includes a 30 minute ferry ride, a bus tour around the island where you see the lime quarry where Mandela & other political prisoners did hard labor, & a walking tour around the prison. Our guide around the prison grounds was an ex-political prisoner who was able to give us a first hand experience about the daily life for prisoners on the island.

Among most popular spots in Cape Town is the Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront. It’s the perfect place to shop, eat, & enjoy the views.

If you are a foodie, then Cape Town won’t disappoint. One evening we enjoyed typical African food & entertainment at Mama Africa.

We found a very nice food court called the Time Out Market on the V&A Waterfront where every meal was delicious & nicely served.

Our last tour in Cape Town was to the Diamond Museum located at the V&A Waterfront. South Africa’s diamond industry dates back to 1866. In the 1870s & 1880s, South Africa produced 95% of all diamonds in the world.

After the tour we were given a chance to purchase a diamond. Hmmm…maybe next time or after I win the lottery.

Diamond workshop

Sorry, we didn’t ask how much they cost. 😂

South Africa’s False Bay

A drive along the False Bay coastline on M4 is not to be missed on a visit to Cape Town. The view is spectacular; but also, there are a few other rewards along the way.

Boulders Beach & Foxy Beach in Simon’s Town are a permanent home to many African Penguins.

African Penguins are often referred to as “Jackass Penguins” due to their loud braying.

Simon’s Town is the only place penguins are found on the African continent.

For a small national park entry fee, you can use wooden boardwalks along the beach to observe the penguins. We found many only inches away not only nesting in the bushes; but also, a few penguins even occasionally meandered down the boardwalk along with us humans.

Two nice platforms allow you to watch the penguins waddle out to the sea, shake themselves dry after they return to the beach, or simply observe the colony nesting on the beach.

We got up extra early to be at the park when it opened at 8:00 AM. It was nice to enjoy the penguins all by ourselves for a while.

It’s a fun time for any nature and/or animal lover.

Up close snapshots? … Not a problem.
There are also many Rock Hyraxes near the penguins hoping to steal their eggs or any unattended human food.

Also, Simon’s Town is a cute little town to enjoy just on its own.

Up the coast at St. James Beach, surfers flock to enjoy the waves & photographers can’t resist the colorful beach huts.

Sadly the fog lingered all day long at St James Beach

Among the most popular group shot is the one at the very tip of the Cape of Good Hope. We waited in a long line to get this photo.

South Africa Wine Country

We drove SE out of Cape Town this morning to enjoy the beautiful wine country. Since the day began enveloped in heavy fog, we weren’t sure how much scenery we would see.

The first stop was the historic Veregelen Wine Estate.

It’s name comes from Dutch meaning “situated far away”.

The estate dates back to the 1700s. During a visit, you have the opportunity to view the original homestead house & the wine cellar which has been converted into a massive library.

Today, the grounds contain various buildings converted into restaurants along with extensive manicured gardens.

When we arrived, it was a bit chilly & the fog had yet to lift. The weather made me want a nice cup of tea to get warm. To my great pleasure, the Rose Terrace was an ideal spot to relax on a cool foggy morning.

In fact, I rate the Rose Cottage among the most ideal tea rooms I have ever visited. Luckily, we were there before others began arriving, so we had time to enjoy its ambiance almost all by ourselves.

Nothing beats a warm cup of tea & a scone on a cool morning.

By the time we left the Rose Cottage, the fog had lifted revealing beautiful blue skies which allowed us to enjoy the gardens.

Camphor Trees on the estate planted by the 1st Dutch owner are over 300 years old & are still used to make Camphor

Next on the agenda was a visit to an Olive estate called Morgensted which is located right next to Veregelen.

They also produce grapes to make wine; but, instead of a wine tasting, we did an olive oil tasting.

Olive Trees at Morgensted

Then we made a short visit to Stellenbosch which is a quaint university town located in the heart of South Africa’s wine country. It has many eateries & would have been a great place for lunch if we had not just finished our olive oil tasting.

Our last stop was at the very high scale winery at the Delaire Graff Estate. It was still a little too early for wine tasting; but, the beautiful views from there were intoxicating.

Kruger National Park, South Africa

For the past four days we enjoyed safari driving in Kruger National Park located in South Africa’s northeastern corner.

Kruger ranks among the largest game reserves in Africa. It covers an area of 17,576 square miles which is approximately the size of New Jersey or the country of Wales.

It took us 4 days driving many hours each day & we only saw about 1/3 of the park. We were rewarded with seeing many animals along with some new first time safari experiences.

One rare sighting was seeing a mother hyena nursing her pup on the side of the road.

Our theory is the mother hyena knows that predators don’t like being close to the road where vehicles & people are, so she felt safe nursing her pup there instead of in the bush.

The other rare sighting was a dead leopard in a tree.

Apparently it was deposited there after being killed by another leopard.

Leopards are not only very territorial m’; but also, they have very strong jaws & are excellent climbers.

Leopards are the only cats who can climb that high carrying another animal.

Like most African game parks, you get very close to the wildlife.

We enjoyed our game drives each day. Here are a few animal sightings from the past few days.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy

We were lucky to have half a day to explore the Ol Pejeta Conservancy wildlife park near Nanyuki. This is a private park that helps protect & conserve numerous African wild animals. With the recent rains, we were glad to have a 4×4 vehicle to maneuver the muddy roads getting to & from the park as well as within it.

Near the entrance is a nice sign marking Zero Degrees latitude on the Equator.

One unique feature at Ol Pejeta is their chimpanzee sanctuary for rescued chimps which was started in 1993 by the world’s preeminent chimp expert Jane Goodall. They currently provide a home for 2 troops totaling 40 chimpanzees.

You can get up close & personal with a blind black rhino named Baraka which means “Lucky” because he was Lucky to be rescued & cared for. He likes to be fed & to have his ears rubbed.

Here is an assortment of other animals we enjoyed watching on our game drive.

The very rare white rhino.
They are protected from poachers by an electric fence.

Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Animal Orphanage

A great place to visit near Nanyuki, Kenya, is the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy Animal Orphanage located at the Mount Kenya Safari Cub.

It makes up for its small size by providing true interaction with the animals. Each visitor is provided with their own wildlife management guide. The guide is able to answer all your questions & helps you interact safely with a few animals.

Up Close & Personal with Llamas, Monkeys, Ostriches, & Turtles

Animals to see here include: bongos, cheetahs, elands, hyenas, & lions to name just a few.

Many animals love the guides & come very close to the wire cage.

To learn more: https://mountkenyawildlifeconservancy.org/animal-orphanage

Back in Nanyuki

After 3 wonderful days at the Women’s Center at the Twala Tenebo Cultural Manyatta near Il Poles, we are back in Nanyuki.

At the MEET Girls’ Mentor Retreat, we met all 14 girls who are currently in school & 8 girls who have graduated.

3 MEET graduates are in trade schools learning to become a wildlife tour guide, caterer & plumber.

And, this year, 3 MEET graduates are starting college!

These girls & young ladies are amazing people who show strong determination to do well in school & find work to support their families.

Taking notes & meeting together
Writing thank you letters to their education supporters
Liz, the MEET team leader with her newborn.
Break time
Gina, Rosemary and Aurora, part of the Kenya & USA leaders
Rosemary with some of the local Maasai women
Rosemary with the staff that cooked for us during the retreat
On their way home
We had a great time!

Nanyuki, Kenya

We are enjoying time in Nanyuki with Liz Silikan who leads the in-country, on-the-ground support efforts for the charity I started to help Maasai girls attend school.

Our first time in Nanyuki was in 1984. We returned in 2010 where we did a walking safari and met many Maasai.

I liked Nanyuki so much I returned on my own in 2013 where I offered to sponsor a Maasai girl to attend secondary school. A few years later, I formed the charity Maasai Education & Empowerment Today (MEET).

To learn more go to meet5.org

MEET Board Member Aurora Lau is accompanying me on this visit & has been an invaluable asset providing insights & support.

We visited one school in Nanyuki where some girls attend.

There are many administrative, operational, & legal challenges to working in Kenya.

In addition to spending hours with a lawyer to establish MEET as a legal entity within Kenya to be able to fund raise locally, we spent some time at Western Union resolving a snafu that prevented funds being transferred from a bank in America to deposit in our local bank to pay for the girls’ tuition and room & board.

After successfully obtaining our much needed funds, we celebrated by having a “Stoney” which is short for “Stoney Tangawizi“ which is a strong ginger ale soft drink.

Nairobi

We made it to Kenya! Our first day in Nairobi was jam packed. The day started with watching the caretakers feed the orphaned baby elephants at the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.

Next, we went to feed giraffes at the Giraffe Center.

We ended the day visiting Karen Blixen’s home which is located in Karen named after her. She is the famous Danish author who wrote “Out of Africa” along with many other books.

Then we went to downtown Nairobi to shop at the Maasai Market.

Yesterday we drove north from Nairobi to Nanyuki in Laikipia Province which is located on the Equator.