Hard to believe this is day 11 on our hike. Seems like we just started a few days ago! I had to look at the map to realize we have walked over 120 miles so far.
Today the company that arranged our trek & luggage transfers gave us a short 4.5 miles to walk. On our last Camino two years ago, we would have begged for a 4.5 mile day. On that trek we averaged 14.5 miles a day… for 38 straight days.
Even though we could have easily walked further, with afternoon rain in the forecast (which did occur), it was nice to be done before noon & be dry.
Redondela is a quaint Spanish town with many old buildings still standing.
Small cobblestone streetsAt one time, animals were kept below & living quarters were aboveHome with old granary out front
Now that many more people have joined the Camino, there is a steady flow of walkers on the route. As the day progresses, people become more & more spread out.
Pilgrims leaving Redondela on the way up the first big hill. We saw a few people on our last Camino walking with their dog, but this is our first time to see 2 dogs walking the trail together
At breakfast, we heard these two lovely ladies stating they had started this Camino 33 days ago in Lisbon & were carrying all their belongings.
We later met them on the trail & had a short chat. They are from Canada & are 79 years old!!! Maybe I’ll be lucky enough to still be walking Caminos at that age. 🤞
We had not seen people jettisoning their shoes until today. Maybe they were uncomfortable or too heavy; but, no Camino is complete without seeing abandoned footwear.
However, others like to leave memories of loved ones or just stuff to show they were here.
Evidently, Halloween has become an event celebrated worldwide.
This home gets the award for most clever decorations.
A few things caught our attention on our short walk.
Old fountainExample showing the many languages spoken by people who walk the CaminoCute cafe in ArcadeA Mail box along with a Bread box at a house. Soooo wish that bread delivery was possible where I live. A country that understands the importance of fresh baked bread has the right priorities. 🤣Here’s a view into a bread delivery van. There is a wide assortment available, not just French bread!
View from the hill we crested today to reach Arcade.
We finally reached a marker indicating less than 100km to Santiago
Our hike today was 10 miles in constant on & off rain.
About the time we thought the rain was finished, we would remove our rain ponchos & within 10-15 minutes, another rain shower would start causing us to gear up again. Such is life for a pilgrim on the Camino.
Here are a few images from when we walked out of Vigo.
Rainy start to the dayHalloween cookiesCitroen 2CV- my favorite old European car- notice the canvas, roll-back sunroofThese fruit stores are very popular in Spain
In the previous two days, we only saw 9 pilgrims in total. Today, we saw close to that many in the first hour.
To receive the Compostela Certificate in Santiago, you have to walk at least 100 km & collect stamps along the way in your Pilgrim Passport proving you walked it.
Vigo is exactly 100 km from Santiago which explains why we are now seeing more people on the path.
After climbing up a paved road on a very steep hill,to leave Vigo, we reached a nice flat plateau that wound through another eucalyptus & oak forest for several miles.
Some fun art work along the way.
Rande Bridge
Before reaching Redondela, we enjoyed a short rest at the Church of Santo Andre.
Church of Saint AndrePilgrim statue on the church facade
Our 12 mile walk today was an another enjoyable ramble. Rain was forecasted, so we wore our rain gear as we left Nigrán.
I added my poncho when I thought we were going to get a heavy rain.
However, there was hardly any precipitation & the clouds kept the temps in the low 60s which was lovely.
This water reservoir resting area would have been a great stop to use yesterday in the pouring rain.
Not long after leaving Nigrán we had a steady up hill climb to a forested area. This time the forest contained oak & chestnut trees. The ground was covered with furry looking chestnut husks.
It was lovely to have a nice fall walk through the forest.
Only 115 km to go. Ocean View
We passed by a very cute pilgrim spot to get a stamp in our Camino passports & had fun looking at all the decorations.
Along the walk we met 2 men on their way to Santiago. Simon who is around our age is from Chester, England, near Liverpool; Boris is a 45 year old man from Berlin.
Around noon we all stopped at a small pub. I had my usual cafe con leche. We had fun having a nice chat.
I think meeting new people on the Camino is the biggest bonus along the way
Boris ended up walking with us the rest of the way to Vigo. Since he lives in Berlin, we loved talking with him about our time in Berlin. He had also lived in London for 5 years, so his English was impeccable making it very easy to converse.
When we reached the outskirts, it took another hour to reach the Vigo city center. It’s a rather large city. As in many cities, graffiti is common on large walls.
You could easily take all summer just to tour the Cyclades Islands by hopping from one island to the next on the ferries.
Waiting for the large aft doors on the ferry to open to disembark
Each island is charming in its own ways even though they all have the ubiquitous white buildings with blue framed windows & doors. Another icon on the islands is the paving stones outlined in white accented by intense fuchsia, crimson, or purple bougainvillea bushes. It feels like a summer dream come to life.
On Paros the most charming small town we visited was Naoussa. In many ways, it reminded me of Mykonos, so it’s easy to see why Paros is becoming more popular.
Tables awaiting the large summer crowdsMany tiny shops to exploreColorful NaoussaBest seat on shoreOld Venetian FortHarbor view
I happend upon one shop that catered to local artists by providing them a perfect place to sell their work. One of the shop’s proprietors was very kind & offered me a small bouquet of local wildflowers while I browsed the shop. I couldn’t resist buying s painted gourd which resembles a chicken.
Like many islands across Greece, Paros has another icon…windmills. Here is a little history about them:
Some windmills have been renovated to cater to tourists. The most famous ones are located in Mykonos; but, Paros has a few nice ones as well.
While on Paros, we stayed in Parikia. Near the ferry boat dock, we visited an amazing Byzantine church called the Panagia Ekatontapiliani or the “Church with a 100 Doors”.
It was built in 326 AD before Constantine the Great proclaimed Christianity as the the Roman Empire’s official religion ranking it among the oldest churches in Greece.
Cutaway in the floor showing pedestal from ancient temple upon which this church was built
Here is a brief summary about why this church is renowned:
According to legend, the original church was either constructed by Saint Helene herself or Saint Constantine, the first Emperor of Constantinople, after the oblation of his mother.
During her journey to the Holy Land to search for the True Cross upon which Christ was crucified, a storm brought Saint Helene to Paros, where she promised the Virgin to build a church if her quest was successful. According to one story version, her quest was successful, so Saint Helene returned to Paros & built this impressive church. Another legend version claims the church was built by her son Constantine the Great after her death & it was dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin.
The name Ekatontapiliani means the Church with the Hundred Doors. According to tradition, the church has 99 doors & a secret door will open when the church of Hagia Sofia in Constantinople becomes Orthodox again.
Unlike many visitors to the Greek islands, we don’t come for the beaches; but, rather, to enjoy the culture & history.
One day we walked the Byzantine Road which was made from marble over 1,000 years ago. First, we drove to Prodromos from where we walked the old road to & from the attractive hilltop town Levkes. It was about 2.25 miles & took us a leisurely hour and a half to walk it each way. Due to the ravages of time, the road is no longer paved the entire way with marble.
To find the starting point, we enjoyed strolling through beautiful small Prodromos.
The walk is a a great way to enjoy the Greek countryside on a sunny; but, not too hot day.
The marble from Paros is very famous & is known as Parian marble.
We were kind of able to visit the ancient quarries from where this marble was extracted. I say “kind of” because most of it is closed to visitors due to the inherent danger from being in caves which have been mined since the 5th Century BC.
Mining stopped in the 7th Century & resumed for a short time in the 19th Century before stopping for good at this location.
I stopped by a local artist’s shop next to the ancient quarry & bought a few small pieces he had carved from this marble. When you hold it up to the light, it is transparent.
On our last day we took a very short ferry ride to Antiparos for a quick walk around the port town Chora. It’s another lovely typical little island town.
Some years ago, this quiet island known for its laidback vibe caught the eye of Tom Hanks & Rita Wilson. It is reported they have owned a small vacation home here since the early 2000’s.
On the ferry to Antiparos
On drives around Paros, we also saw these lovely scenes.
If you love or even just like cats, then you will be happy in Greece. There are many, many kitties here. They are just part & parcel of what makes Greece be Greece.
Sunset Cat Feeding in Perikia
Almost every small Greek fishing village comes with two elements. First is the docks for the fishing boats. The second is restaurants lining the harbor. Each restaurant has almost the exact same menu with typical Greek dishes & of course, they offer seafood. So, you basically just pick the restaurant with the seating you prefer.
Another lovely vacation in the Greek Islands ends with a beautiful sunset.
When touring the Cyclades, you can stay on the tourist route that follows the cruise ships along with big crowds that come with them, or take off to an island where the cruise ships don’t go.
We chose the latter option & went to Naxos. Unlike Santorini which gets over 3 million visitors each year, Naxos gets around 600,000 a year. Naxos is also a large island so it can easily handle visitors which enables you to relax far away from maddening crowds.
View from our patio
About a half mile from our hotel was charming Naxos Town which is perfect for strolling around in the old town for shopping & dining.
Near the town you can walk up a short hill called Palatia to see Naxos’ most famous landmark- The Portara.
The Portara is the only remnant from the never- finished Temple of Apollo which was started in 530 BC.
It is the door into the temple & was made from marble quarried on the island.
To see the island at our own pace we rented a car & drove to see the sights.
Temple of Demeter This temple dedicated to the Goddess of Agriculture Demeter dates from to the 6th Century BC. It was only rediscovered in 1949. Naxos was the first place marble was used in Greece & this temple is the first structure in history built entirely from marble.
Its location is easy to understand because it is situated in a very fertile valley where many crops were & still are grown.
In ancient times Naxos was known for its marble which is still quarried & used worldwide. Kouroi which are are very large human-like statues made from marble are found in several places on the island.
Melanes Kouros Statue- Danaged in transit & left where it broke- note the break in the right leg Flerio Kori- Dating from 570 BC, this statue was damaged while being made & was left in place near the ancient quarry. A Kori is a female figure & Kori is the Greek word for “daughter”.Apollonas Kouros This statue representing the God of Wine Dionysos is 10 meters long weighing 80 tons & was started in the 7th Century BC. It is not damaged; but, it is thought that it was left in place in the marble quarry simply because it was just too heavy to move.
Apollonas is a lovely seaside village where the unfinished Kouros depicting Dionysos is located,
This Greek church named Panagia Drossiani dating from the 6th Century is not only the oldest church on Naxos; but also, in the Balkans.
Naxos is known for its special foods & drinks. Instead of Feta cheese being added to the traditional Greek Salad, here they use a softer version called Naxos Cheese.
We also enjoyed their delicious potatoes that are softer in texture, but many people come to Naxos for the wine.
But, if you need something a little stronger, Naxos has its own special liquor called Kitron.
We enjoyed visiting the Vallindras Distillery in Chalki. This distillery has been owned & operated by the Vallindras family for five generations since 1896.
We spent a few lovely hours in Apeiranthos. This extremely quaint, unique village is made from marble- walls, window frames, steps, & walkways are all marble. As a testament to marble’s durability, some structures date from the 12th Century
We came across a lovely store with very unique pottery, It looks like metal, but is actually clay with a mica glaze finish.
Donations to support the Emery minersThe dark stone is Emery & the light stone is Mica. The hard Emery is rubbed on the soft Mica to produce silt used to glaze the pottery.
On Naxos’ southern end at Alyko Beach is a huge hotel complex that was started in the 1960s, abandoned in the 1970s during the military dictatorship, & never finished.
It became a draw for street artists from all over the world to tag. Some pieces are quite good whereas many others are not. The place is also covered in graffiti. It’s too bad the hotel didn’t work because it is located near very nice beaches. While there, I kept thinking the ruins would make a perfect location for a movie thriller.
If asked to describe a typical Greek island, many people would say white buildings on a treeless, rocky hillside with blue domed churches. This description is apt for the Cyclades Isles. These charming islands which seem tailor- made for a movie set are why so many tourists come here.
From the 33 inhibited islands in the Cyclades, Santorini (Thera or Thira to the Greeks) is definitely the queen. Over 3 million annual visitors come to see & experience one of the most picturesque locations on Earth. Why not? The pristine white villages seem to pop out against the dark volcanic soil & deep blue Aegean Sea which makes a perfect holiday setting.
With help from the highly supportive tourism industry, each building is newly whitewashed each spring. Here is the history behind this iconic Cyclades appearance:
Most visitors make their way to the island’s westernmost town called Oia (pronounced EE-ah) This is probably the most photographed place in Greece. However, to visit it, you need to be prepared to climb up & down many steps because the houses are built into the vertical mountain side, one on top of the other. Even with the vertical challenge, Oia is well worth the trouble. Every direction you face & every turn you make just begs to have a picture taken to capture every spectacular view.
Remember when we use to say, “This a Kodak Moment”? Well, here a few from Santorini.
For many, being in Oia at sunset is the ideal photo opportunity with its “golden light”.
Santorini is also famous for its volcanic eruption which around 1700 BC & covered the ancient city Akrotiri with ash, much like Pompeii in Italy was. No human remains or valuable jewelry have been found at Akrotiri which means the inhabitants must have known their city was doomed & left before the cataclysm.
The gigantic eruption had a devastating impact on the Minoan civilization in Crete which is 60 miles away. Here is some information about this explosion:
The last lava flow at Santorini was in 1950; but, significant seismic activity occurred this year which means another volcanic eruption could still occur… sooner than later.
Santorini is the remnants left after the explosion.
On this trip, we visited the ruins at Akrotiri & the Museum of Prehistoric Thera museum which contains many artifacts & wall frescos found at the site.
Being on Santorini is always a joy, even though it is a popular stop for large cruise ships. Multiple cruise ships stop at the same time bringing their passengers ashore which causes huge crowds. To escape all this hubbub, on all our previous visits to Santorini & including this one, we enjoy making the 8 mile hike from Fira to Oia.
Here are some images taken on our hike:
We saw this old green lounge chair randomly sitting on the caldera & couldn’t resist doing an Anne Leibovitz pose. Only thing missing are cocktail glasses on the table. 😂
We stayed in Oia again; but, instead of staying in an old windmill, this time we stayed in a “cave house” which is dug into into the mountainside. Since it came with a small kitchen, we enjoyed making our own meals which was a nice change.
Cave House DoorEnjoying breakfast with one of the localsKitchen Window ViewKitchen View from our deckOur typical homemade meal
On our very first visit here, we met a young artist who painted Santorini scenes on old wooden wine barrels & doors. We were happy to see that after many years, she is still here & we purchased more art from her to display at home.
With the artist & her daughter
Cats are everywhere in Greece & add to the ambiance.
On our last night we enjoyed the evening lights.
For me, Santorini is one of the few places that not only lives up to my expectations; but also, always exceeds them. Despite the humongous cruise ships that bring large tour groups, it is still exquisitely lovely. 🥰
If you are in Greece & only have limited time & you want to visit the islands, then you can take a one day cruise that goes to 3 islands- Hydra, Poros, & Aegina- in the Saronic Gulf. Since it is only a one day cruise, time is limited on each island which you can choose to see on your own, or take a tour to experience it.
We took this cruise on our first trip to Greece in 1985. It was nice to revisit each place.
Hydra
Hydra is known as one of the most beautiful Greek Islands where starting in the 1950s, various movies have been filmed. This exposure led to many celebrities living here.
Today, the island is more for day tourists & those looking for a quiet place to go on holiday since no cars are allowed there.
With no cars allowed, these horses & mules are among the only transportation on HydraHoly Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin built in 1623- Chandeliers were taken from Versailles during the French Revolution & are still lit only by candlesChurch museum has a cross with a fragment said to have been taken from the “True Cross” upon which Jesus was crucified. The True Cross was said to have been found by Constantine the Great’s mother Helena in Jerusalem in 320 AD,
Poros
Our next stop was Poros where something unusual happened… IT RAINED. We rarely experience precipitation in Greece. However, Poros is a small island with not too much to see, so the rain did not put a damper on missing too much.
The Clock Tower in Poros Town Rainy PorosPoros Town harbor
Aegina
Aegina is the biggest island on the cruise. According to myth, Zeus fell in love with Aegina who was a daughter of the River God Asopos. Zeus took her to this island which was named after her.
Aegina has been inhabited since 3000 BC.
We took a tour to see the Temple of Aphaia which was built in 480 BC & is called “The First Parthenon” It is dedicated to Aphaia who was the goddess of fertility & agriculture. This is the only temple ever dedicated to her.
This temple along with the Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens & the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion geographically form an isosceles triangle which has two equal length sides. On clear days, each temple can be seen from each other which is interpreted as a possible feature for defensiveignaling.
25 ea. columns from the original 32 ea. columns have been restored.The external columns incline slightly inward & the columns located at corners are slightly thicker than the rest. These design features were used decades later to build the Parthenon. The temple’s pediments were decorated with marble statues depicting Aeginean warriors fighting in the Trojan War. They are now displayed in Munich, Germany.
Aegina is also known for its pistachio trees. Pistachio cultivation started in Greece on Aegina in 1860. We had a chance to buy some roasted pistachios from this man. He also gave us some unripe pistachios to try. The shells have not yet hardened so they are soft & still have a “nutty” texture; but, they tasted like a sour grape.
Pistachio TreesNote the green, unripened pistachios on the branch Friendly Neighborhood Pistachio Vendor
We were entertained by Greek music and dancing during our last hour on the ship.
Wild red poppy flowers were in full bloom in the fields from Sofia to AthensNext to the road
Our adventure by rail from Berlin to Athens is almost complete.
The only part on our journey that we could not do by train was from Sofia, Bulgaria to Thessaloniki, Greece.
So, we boarded a bus, rode a few hours to reach Greece, then spent two days in Thessaloniki.
We have visited Thessaloniki before; but, this time, we enjoyed visiting with one of my husband’s college friends who now lives there.
We also went to the archaeological museum which we had not previously seen.
Thessaloniki was founded in 315 BC by Cassander who named the city after his wife who was Alexander the Great’s half-sister.
Here are a few Thessaloniki highlights we enjoyed.
Thessaloniki is famous for its deserts. Famous Greek American chef Diane Kochilas has this to say about Thessaloniki sweets:
“Cosmopolitan Thessaloniki is also known admirably by its locals as “the sweet mother”, thanks to its longstanding pastry tradition. Almost everywhere you turn, there is a shop selling desserts in every shape & size. Some of Greece’s leading pastry dynasties hail from Thessaloniki. “
Trigono Panoramatos- The Elenidis Bakery located in Thessaloniki’s Panorama district invented this sweet. It is crisp filo dough shaped in a triangle (Trigono in Greek) with a pocket which is filled with a rich custard or cream.White Tower- Built by the Byzantines in the 12th Century; Used by the Ottomans as a prisonAlexander the Great statue overlooking the Thermaic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. At 17 meters high, it is the tallest statue in Greece.Gold death mask & warrior helmet at the Archeological Museum Women’s jewelry & brooches at Archeological MuseumThe Triumphal Arch of Caesar GaleriusRoman forum ruinsGreat to be back in Greece with its delicious food. 😋Greek entertainers at our restaurant
Then, it was back on the train headed for Athens. Traveling by train throughout most of Europe is very easy & not too expensive. The trains in the former East Bloc countries are a big step down in comfort; but, they get you there & are close to their schedule, when they are running.
The pluses to train travel vs. air travel is more leg room, no security checks, ability to board only a few minutes before departure, no bag weight or size restrictions, or extra fees. What’s not to like about all that! 😊
This is our 10th trip to Greece; but, the first time in May. It is nice to have cooler temperatures in the 70s with beautiful green hills. Plus, the added bonuses are smaller crowds & no fires that often accompany Greece’s summers.
Athens has over 60 museums & many historical locations to explore. We are never at a loss to find things to do as well enjoy revisiting favorite spots around town
One favorite spot is the Changing of the Guard ceremony at Greece’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma Square. Guard changes occur several times a day; but the main ceremony occurs Sundays at 11:00 AM with the evzones in their formal dress uniforms accompanied by a band.
We toured the Panatheniac Stadium for the first time.
It was originally built in 330 BC. The Romans expanded it to seat 50,000 & refurbished it entirely out of marble. It was used until the 4th Century, then was basically abandoned. It was excavated & renewed in the late 19th Century & hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896. After the Olympic flame is relayed from Olympia, it is transferred to the host country in this stadium.
It is still the only stadium in the world built entirely from marble.
The track is 185 meters long. In ancient times, this length was a measurement known as a “stade”. All tracks throughout the Hellenic world were the same length. So, the venue for games became known as the “stadium”.
The stadium also has a museum featuring posters from all the Summer Olympics. Here are a few:
1896- Athens 1920- Antwerp1924- Paris1936- Berlin1948- London1960- RomeMonastiraki Square under the Parthenon on the Acropolis
After Romania, we took an 8 hour train trip from Bucharest to Sofia, Bulgaria.
All Bulgarian trains are covered in graffiti, not the best conditions, but they get you there
There are many reasons to travel, but one is the opportunity to meet people from different countries.
Our train car was the old fashion kind with compartments that sat 6 people- 3 in each row facing each other. Our seats placed us with two young Norwegian men who were on holiday traveling through the Balkans. We enjoyed passing the hours swapping travel stories & learning about each other’s cultures.
Sofía
Bulgaria’s capital is Sofia. It is named after the very old church in the city that dates back to Roman times. Many churches were named Sophia like the famous Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
We felt the best way to see this small capital city was to take a couple free walking tours where you tip the guide $5-10 for a 2 hour tour.
Our first was called the Free Sofia Tour. Here are a few places we saw along the way. https://freesofiatour.com/
Serdica- old Roman ruinsRoman ruins & Banta Bashi mosqueOld Central Baths is now a museumTesting the natural thermal water- it is warm & has a sulfur taste Lenin’s statue was once displayed here to honor Communism Now the Sofia Monument replaces Lenin National Theater St. George Rotunda Church- Oldest structure in Sofia dating to 4th Century Roman timesSt Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
The two most interesting things we learned was first, the Bulgarian people figured out how to protect most of its Jewish population from being sent to concentration camps during WWII.
The second interesting fact is that the Cyrillic alphabet now used in 14 countries was developed in Bulgaria.
T-shirts with the original Bulgarian alphabet in Glagolitic Script which was too complicated & the current Cyrillic alphabet upon which it is based
The second walking tour was a free tasting tour called “Balkan Bites” during which we tried Bulgarian food & learned a little about local food customs. https://www.balkanbites.bg/
Here are the highlights from this tour.
Veggie burger for us at a hip place for young people Mekitsa- Fried dough with powdered sugarBrown bread with a spicy Bulgarian topping called Lyutenitsa which is made from peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, garlic, & walnutsTraditional Bulgarian appetizers Owner of a very small shop on our tourSamardala- Hungarian plant used to make a green salty spice that is used instead of salt
Like all East Bloc countries, Bulgaria was under a Communist regime for close to 45 years.
We were able to do a self-guided listening tour through an apartment called “The Red Flat” that hadn’t been changed since 1989 when Communism ended in Bulgaria.
This flat was for a fortunate family because the father was allowed to work abroad. But, it still only had one bedroom, one living room, a dining room, a kitchen & very small bathroom in only a few hundred square feet in size.
Both my husband & I feel like the Communist countries were kind of always stuck in time in the 1960s which is when the Berlin Wall went up along with the Iron Curtain closing the borders where the East Bloc countries touched Western Europe. From that time on, very little interaction with the West was allowed & everything you could buy was controlled by the Communist government including dress styles.
See what you think about a typical Communist home from the 1980s in these pictures.
A national holiday occurred while we were here called “St. George’s Day.” This is not only a religious celebration commemorating Saint George who slew the dragon; but also, it is Bulgaria’s Armed Forces Day celebrating its military.
We didn’t see any of the formal military parade; but, I enjoyed having my picture taken with a few young people dressed in the traditional guards’ uniform & we also saw a few military guards near the Presidential residence.
My husband also spotted Bulgaria’s President Ruman Radev . Even with tight security, he was able to get close enough to take a good photo of him.
Ruman Radev on the right – Security Detail on the left & behind him
A few more fun pictures around Sofia & cool art that looks like covers from my the New Yorker magazine.
Men playing chess in the parkVitosha Boulevard- busy shopping street lined with blooming chestnut trees with mountains in the distance
Sofía is a large city; but, we spent all our time in & around the old town which was a lovely area to spend two days seeing.
We left Budapest in the evening via overnight train in a sleeper car headed for Romania.
If you were playing “Family Feud” & the question was, “What do people say when you ask them what comes from Romania?” A good chance the #1 answer would be Dracula followed by the #2 answer Gypsy.
Regarding Gypsies, here is some info:
But, without a doubt, Dracula is Romania’s main draw. Dracula is almost like the country’s mascot. His picture & name are constantly used throughout Romania on posters, restaurants, & advertisements.
Never underestimate the power of a best selling, classic book followed by many popular movies. A UK visit is much the same now with Harry Potter.
Bram Stoker’s 1897 Gothic Horror novel “Dracula” takes place in Transylvania’s Carpathian Mountains. We learned that Transylvania means “through the forest” in Latin because the Roman Army passed through those mountains via forested passes.
Hard to believe; but, Bram Stoker never visited Romania. Rather, he used postcards to see what the area looked like & he did research on local folklore to shape both the main character & setting in his book. Just as Stoker wrote that garlic was used to repel vampires, our guide told us that locals still hang garlic around door frames to protect their homes against creatures of the night.
We visited Bran Castle which is a large castle perched high on a very steep hill not too far from Brasov. Based on Stoker’s vivid description of Dracula’s lair, it is now called Dracula’s Castle.
It is more than just a tourist trap, but a lovely castle to visit that was once the summer palace for Romania’s Queen Marie in the early 1900’s.
Vlad Tepes (Tepes means “the Impaler”) who partly inspired Dracula through his penchant to impale his enemies & was rumored to drink their blood never lived here.
However, since Bran Castle overlooked & defended a key pass through the Carpathian Mountains, he almost certainly stayed there.
Vlad’s father was Vlad Dracul (Vlad the Dragon). His given name was Vlad Dracula meaning “Vlad the Dragon’s Son”. In 18th Century Romania, “ Dracul” became the word for “Devil”, so Dracula means “Son of the Devil”.
Brasov’s old city is very quaint with a city square & old church. It looks a lot like many small villages in Southern Germany because many Saxons from there immigrated to Romania.
Catherine’s Gate built in 1559 is Brasov’s only surviving city gate Brasov City Square
We visited the small Sinaia Monastery founded in 1695 where a few monks still live. The small Orthodox church has beautiful frescoes.
Our last Transylvania highlight was Peles Castle. It was built from 1873 till 1914 by Romania’s King Carol I. Its name comes from the nearby Peles Creek.
Unlike older palaces, this one was not retrofitted to incorporate modern conveniences; but, was designed & built to have electricity, plumbing, heating, telephones, elevators, central vacuum system, etc. to support 170 rooms & 30 bathrooms.
It is decorated more with wood than marble to provide warmth during the harsh Carpathian Mountains winter. Each & every room is wonderful to gaze upon. Artists from around the world were invited to decorate different portions in the home.
Peles Castle exterior with a minor towerSpiral staircase in Hall of HonorRetractable roof in Hall of Honor opens to allow stargazing Clever design with a painting from the opposite wall reflected & framed in a mirrorHall of Honor- Main reception hall HallwayMoor Hall Turkish Salon
An interesting fact we learned from our guide was that the Orient Express would stop here on its way from Paris as its wealthy passengers were invited to dine at the castle before going on to Istanbul.
Dining Room
A visit to Transylvania & the Carpathian Mountains was well worth it. The region is also known for hiking trails in its mountains which we might explore one day. The area looks a bit like the Bavarian Alps. Except here, bears still wander the mountains & hikers must always be on alert. I even got a bear alert on my phone while we were in the mountains.
The Wanderers 