Camino: Day 16

Distance: 19 KM (11.8 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, moderate wind, 39-50°

Time on trail: 5.2 hours including breaks

Since it is no longer hot and the sun continues to come up later, we see no reason to start before 8:30.

This morning it was very cold. Once again I had on 5 layers on my torso and 2 layers on my legs. We weren’t expecting it to be this cold this early during the hike.

We were very happy to see the sun get up high in the sky. After one very rainy day followed by one super windy day , I was looking forward to a day with neither.

Unfortunately, the Camino has a way of reminding you this isn’t supposed to be easy. Today was actually the first day I walked in pain.

With flat land I felt I could pickup my pace and make good progress. After doing this for the first few hours, my right shin began to ache. By noon I needed good ole vitamin I (ibuprofen) to finish the last 4 miles.

The first village we passed today was Problacion de Campos.

From here we had 2 choices to make: Walk next to the river or the highway. We chose the river.

As we walked, all I could think was how much this landscape looked like the Texas Panhandle landscape where I grew up.

As you walk along there are constant reminders you are on the Camino De Santiago.

After passing a few villages the pain in my right leg intensified. I was happy to see this lone church up ahead for a chance to rest.

The last large village before Carrion de los Condes was Villalcazar de Sirga. We still needed to walk another 3+ miles. Perfect time to visit a bar for a cafe con leche.

To my surprise my 2 Korean friends were there as well having lunch.

After a few pictures of the local church, it was time to finish up the day.

As we were walking through the village a door was open. I saw that a woman was working on a lace piece. She let me take a picture, but not of her. I so wish I spoke more Spanish because she wanted to tell me about what she was doing and explain the pictures on her wall.

This is a typical street in these small villages on the meseta.

We then joined the pathway next to the highway leading us into Carrion de los Condes which is our home for the night.

For the past few days we have walked with this young woman from China who recently moved to Spain. Her English is excellent and I enjoy our daily conversations.

Today I told her she had to watch the movie “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly” because it was made in Spain.

Westerns movies could still be made here without a problem.

Tomorrow we will hit our half way mark and go below 400 KM to reach Santiago.

“Buen Camino”

Camino: Day 14

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: rainy & high winds, 49-59°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 20 minutes

2nd Weekly total: 162 KM (100.6 miles)

Grand total: 334 KM (207.5 miles)

We have now survived our first rainy day on the Camino. We started out wearing our rain jackets, rain paints and rain ponchos and never took them off.

The meseta was also true to form by having consistent high winds most of the day and especially the last 1km.

After 2 hours and 40 minutes we were happy to make it to Hontanas for a nice break.

We are making progress.

Not long after Hontanas it started to rain again and never stopped.

About 5 KM (3.1 miles) later we reached the San Anton ruins in the pouring rain.

For years food & drink has been left in these portals for the passing pilgrims. Now a nice volunteer & resting spot is located inside.

The Tau Cross is also shown here.

In the pouring rain and very high winds, we made the last 4 KM (2.4 miles) to Castrojeriz.

Like the sign on the highway. We were happy to be at our hotel.

Camino: Day 13

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: rainy, cloudy & very windy, 57-67°

Time on route: 6 hours including breaks

Burgos was a lovely surprise. We had not expected to find it so interesting and charming. There is much more we could have explored.

With the rain prediction we decided to enjoy a late breakfast and exited our hotel around 8:30. Even though the rain was light, we still thought it was best to put on our ponchos

It is the first large city we have walked through without clear markings for the trail. Thankfully my husband had a guide book that helped us find our way.

Because the Camino is a pilgrimage the trail always takes you by a church.

Beautiful mural behind the cathedral.

In 2021 Burgos had an art exhibit promoting the Camino with 39 silhouettes. We spotted many as we continued to walk through the city. Unlike yesterday’s entry into Burgos, the exit was very pleasant.

I had hoped I would meet people from around the world on this pilgrimage.

As I have mentioned on past postings I have become friends with two young Korean women. We are unable to say much to each other, but always smile & hug when we meet on the trail each day.

I also have a short chat each day with a young woman from Italy and another from Mexico. They are short friendships, but all feel very special.

Others we have only met briefly and always wave when we pass.

We finally have less than 500 KM to go.

We made a cafe con leche & bathroom break in Tardajos.

A short time later we pass through Rabe de Las Calzadas. It was a charming little town filled with colorful religious murals.

We have reached the meseta. A large plateau that covers 81,000 square miles (210,000 sq KM). It is known for its extreme weather. Hot in the summer & cold in the winter. It will take us 9 days to cross it.

I love it’s vast landscape and big sky in spite of the high winds.

Only one more mile to go to reach Hornillos.

The best part about the meseta is that it follows the exact same route used by all pilgrims since Queen Isabella. It will feel like walking within history.

Camino: Day 12 (stage one completed)

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy & windy, 57-70°

Time on trail: 4 hours 40 minutes

Total distance: 293 KM (182 miles)

After a pleasant stay at an old hotel with quaint wood beams and rustic wooden doors we headed for the Camino trail at 8:00.

Thankfully a few fellow pilgrims were leaving at the same time showing us the way in the darkness.

This was our last day in the mountainous-hilly region of the Camino. Tomorrow we will start walking the flat section.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we reached the Matagrande summit.

At the top we came across this beautiful poem.

Since the pilgrim dominated the mountains of Navarre and saw the vast fields of Spain. She has not enjoyed a more beautiful sight like this.

In the far distance we could see our final destination for the day, the city of Burgos.

Fun sightings

A special thing about walking the Camino is the “Buen Camino,” greeting you receive from fellow pilgrims and the locals. You also see it at homes as you walk along.

Cleaver way to display flowers & recycle garbage.

After many km/miles walking on the tarmac we approached the outskirts of Burgos, passed the airport & industrial section. It wasn’t my favorite.

We did see this one funny sign.

Finally reached Burgos after an hour.

Camino signs & other sightings

After our earliest arrival time, we enjoyed doing a little touring of Burgos.

Visiting the Cathedral de Santa Maria was the highlight of Borgos.

It is made up of many small chapels inside with beautiful ceilings. It also contains the tomb for El Cid and his wife.

Just another great day on the Camino.