Camino Portugués- Coastal Route: Day 11 – Redondela to Arcade

Hard to believe this is day 11 on our hike. Seems like we just started a few days ago! I had to look at the map to realize we have walked over 120 miles so far.

Today the company that arranged our trek & luggage transfers gave us a short 4.5 miles to walk. On our last Camino two years ago, we would have begged for a 4.5 mile day. On that trek we averaged 14.5 miles a day… for 38 straight days.

Even though we could have easily walked further, with afternoon rain in the forecast (which did occur), it was nice to be done before noon & be dry.

Redondela is a quaint Spanish town with many old buildings still standing.

Now that many more people have joined the Camino, there is a steady flow of walkers on the route. As the day progresses, people become more & more spread out.

At breakfast, we heard these two lovely ladies stating they had started this Camino 33 days ago in Lisbon & were carrying all their belongings.

We later met them on the trail & had a short chat. They are from Canada & are 79 years old!!! Maybe I’ll be lucky enough to still be walking Caminos at that age. 🤞

We had not seen people jettisoning their shoes until today. Maybe they were uncomfortable or too heavy; but, no Camino is complete without seeing abandoned footwear.

However, others like to leave memories of loved ones or just stuff to show they were here.

Evidently, Halloween has become an event celebrated worldwide.

A few things caught our attention on our short walk.

Here’s a view into a bread delivery van. There is a wide assortment available, not just French bread!

View from the hill we crested today to reach Arcade.

Camino Portugués- Coastal Route: Day 10 – Vigo to Redondela

We finally reached a marker indicating less than 100km to Santiago

Our hike today was 10 miles in constant on & off rain.

About the time we thought the rain was finished, we would remove our rain ponchos & within 10-15 minutes, another rain shower would start causing us to gear up again. Such is life for a pilgrim on the Camino.

Here are a few images from when we walked out of Vigo.

In the previous two days, we only saw 9 pilgrims in total. Today, we saw close to that many in the first hour.

To receive the Compostela Certificate in Santiago, you have to walk at least 100 km & collect stamps along the way in your Pilgrim Passport proving you walked it.

Vigo is exactly 100 km from Santiago which explains why we are now seeing more people on the path.

After climbing up a paved road on a very steep hill,to leave Vigo, we reached a nice flat plateau that wound through another eucalyptus & oak forest for several miles.

Some fun art work along the way.

Rande Bridge

Before reaching Redondela, we enjoyed a short rest at the Church of Santo Andre.

Camino Portugués- Coastal Route: Day 9 – Nigrán to Vigo

Our 12 mile walk today was an another enjoyable ramble. Rain was forecasted, so we wore our rain gear as we left Nigrán.

I added my poncho when I thought we were going to get a heavy rain.

However, there was hardly any precipitation & the clouds kept the temps in the low 60s which was lovely.

Not long after leaving Nigrán we had a steady up hill climb to a forested area. This time the forest contained oak & chestnut trees. The ground was covered with furry looking chestnut husks.

It was lovely to have a nice fall walk through the forest.

Ocean View

We passed by a very cute pilgrim spot to get a stamp in our Camino passports & had fun looking at all the decorations.

Along the walk we met 2 men on their way to Santiago. Simon who is around our age is from Chester, England, near Liverpool; Boris is a 45 year old man from Berlin.

Around noon we all stopped at a small pub. I had my usual cafe con leche. We had fun having a nice chat.

I think meeting new people on the Camino is the biggest bonus along the way

Boris ended up walking with us the rest of the way to Vigo. Since he lives in Berlin, we loved talking with him about our time in Berlin. He had also lived in London for 5 years, so his English was impeccable making it very easy to converse.

When we reached the outskirts, it took another hour to reach the Vigo city center. It’s a rather large city. As in many cities, graffiti is common on large walls.

Some interesting figures in Vigo.

Cotswold Walk – Day 11 (Final)

Cold Ashton to Bath

11 miles / 17.7 km

Even though it lightly sprinkled & a few big raindrops briefly fell, we made it into Bath without any measurable precipitation. Next to a miracle to walk the entire Cotswold Way in May in England all the way without any rain.

It was yet another pleasant walk mostly through fields.

We crossed an area where the Battle of Lansdown was fought in 1643 during the First English Civil War.

These areas always make me sad knowing many lives were lost where it is now peaceful.

We saw many markers from the battle over a 2 mile stretch.

As we approached Bath, we passed the Bath Horse Racetrack.

And also saw some scary sculptures.

Then we returned to more beautiful walking paths as we approached Bath. It was sad to know we would be saying goodbye to all the animals & green hills that we had enjoyed for the last 11 days.

I have mentioned the flowers over the past few days; but, they really are wonderful. They seem to grow in places where they weren’t even planted. We have plants growing in sidewalk cracks in the US; but, they aren’t amazingly beautiful flowers.

Today we made it back to the city scene with buses & heavy traffic.

Bath is a world renowned UNESCO site which means it has many tourists; however, almost all of them came by car, train, or bus whereas we walked to get here.

This circular plaque in front of Bath Abbey signifies completing our Cotswold Way trek.

Cotswold Walk – Day 10

Old Sodbury to Cold Ashton to Marshfield

14 miles /22.5 km

How lucky we have been with the weather!!! We enjoyed another nice sunny day. A little warm in the afternoon; but, nothing to complain about. We have been told by many locals how fortunate we have been because the weather earlier in May was very cold & wet.

Today is our next to last day on the Cotswold Way. We came across this sign early today reminding us that we were close to reaching Bath.

Unfortunately, the distance on the sign is incorrect as we have more than 17 miles to go from this point

Here are some highlights from today.

We passed many old stone churches and more farmers’ fields. I especially enjoyed walking by the wheat fields because my father grew wheat.

Some funny signs & sightings.

Our favorite trail sign
Zoom in to read why we had to make a detour
Boy, some hikers must have really made the on locals angry

A little more than halfway through our walk we enjoyed stopping at Dyrham Park. It’s managed by the National Trust & was the location for the 1993 movie “The Remains of the Day” starring Anthony Hopkins & Emma Thompson.

Dyrham Park is a baroque English manor started in 1691 by William Blathwayt who started the British War Office under King William III & also administered the British colonies in North America & the Caribbean. Using these positions & connections enabled him to build this magnificent mansion & furnish it with fabrics, furniture, & art from all over the world.

Me being silly with some wigs.

And of course, the animals & animal figurines on the route.

For some unexplainable reason, cows have always liked me. On several occasions in my life including today, they have walked right up to me.

The nice English town Mansfield is our home for the night.

Cotswold Walk – Day 9

Wotton-Under-Edge to Old Sudbury

15 miles /24 km

Today we started much later than normal. The earliest taxi we could catch back to the hiking trail was at 9:30AM which helped make it a long day.

However, cool temperatures along with no precipitation made it a pleasant walk.

We saw a variety of cows.

This monument commemorates General Lord Robert Somerset who fought Napoleon’s French army in Spain & also at Waterloo. He later represented this area in Parliament. This monument is located near his family’s home in Hawkesbury, Gloucestershire.

A few fun sightings.

Some beautiful fields.

Classic English homes & pubs.

We heard a very loud buzzing sound, looked up, & saw a swarm of bees!!! A local woman told me she had called a bee keeper to come collect them.

I asked, “How do they do that?”

Her reply, “By catching the queen.”

Once again I asked, “How do they do that?”

Her reply, “Exactly” 😂

Bees!

Last rest stop. Today was a long day, so 2 breaks were needed. 😂

We finally made it to our hotel around 4:15PM.

Cotswold Walk – Day 8

Dursley to Wotton-Under-Edge

5.5 miles / 9 km

During a long hiking trek, it’s always nice to have a rest day or a short mileage day. That was today for us because on the remaining three days will be covering 10 miles or more.

Since it was a short walking day, there was no need to hurry, so we left our extremely lovely, funny, & nice B&B hosts at the leisurely time of 8:50AM.

Once again, we crossed farmers’ fields, walked past gardens, & climbed hills.

Somebody nearby loves Winnie the Pooh

We passed through a small village called North Nibley.

Then we climbed a hill to the Tyndale Monument. This monument is named for William Tyndale who helped translate the Bible into English because he believed the Bible should be in a language everyone could read instead of Latin. However, he went against the Catholic Church’s beliefs & customs, so in 1536, he was charged with heresy & burned at the stake for his efforts.

Our last hill today was Wotton Hill which was a nice place for a short rest.

A few miles later we were in Wotton-Under-Edge. (Just love these English names!)

As expected, it is yet another lovely town in the Cotswolds.

I also bought myself a Chelsea Bun. It was yummy by the way.😋

The Star Inn which was built in 1512 has a good story that connects it to the Titanic.

In 1784, John Cambridge was born in the Star Inn which his father owned. As a young man, John emigrated to Prince Edward Island, Canada, where he started a lumber business to support the shipbuilding industry. His lumber business profits grew, so he reinvested them by starting a shipping company which he named the “White Star Line” after his father’s inn. Eventually, Cambridge’s business was acquired & the new owners were the ones who eventually had the ill-fated RMS Titanic built.

Our tour company arranged for us to take a taxi to our accommodation at De Vere Tortworth Court which is an amazing historical hotel that dates back to the 14th Century.

A very special resident at De Vere.

De Vere Tortworth Court history:

Cotswold Walk – Day 7

Stonehouse to Dursley

10 miles / 18 km

The weather forecast for cloudy skies was spot on.

Today’s main obstacle was mud. After yesterday’s afternoon & evening rain, many sections along the path were very muddy.

The trail was slippery from time to time; but, my trusty trekking poles prevented me from falling into the mud on more than one occasion.

We also, once again, enjoyed seeing various animals along the way.

We climbed two big hills today. On Coaley Peak we had spectacular views overlooking the beautiful green countryside.

Near Coaley Peak we passed the Nymphsfield Long Barrow which is another ancient burial site that dates from 2500 BCE.

With only about an hour left on the trail, it seemed like our luck avoiding any precipitation had ended as it started to rain, so out came the rain poncho & rain jacket.

Right after this picture was taken, the rain stopped & the rain gear went right back into our backpacks. 😂

After the brief shower, we had one last big hill to climb for the day.

We reached Dursley in the early afternoon arriving a little earlier than our B&B hosts had expected us.

If you are a Harry Potter fan, the town’s name might sound familiar.

JK Rowling who wrote the Harry Potter books is from this area & supposedly she does not like this town, so she got back at it in her own literary way.

However, we find Dursley quite charming.

Cotswold Walk – Day 6

Painswick to Stonehouse

10 miles /18 km

Today was our first day to walk with cloudy, overcast skies along with high winds in some locations. However, the weather brought cooler temperatures which was nice.

We were on our way at 8:45 AM. Unlike the other days, our travel company booked us at a nice studio apartment where we enjoyed a nice private breakfast before beginning our journey.

Soon after leaving Painswick we passed the half-way marker to Bath.

After crossing an open field, we were soon in a beautiful forest.

We only had to climb one big hill today, whereas over the past 5 days, the path involved a great deal of walking up & down hills.

Climbing hills affords a great view. You can also see the cloudy weather we experienced all day. These exposed ridges had very strong winds which made it quite chilly.

We walked through very pleasant forests with wide pathways for several miles.

Interesting stiles today.

This is a Squeeze Style which is self explanatory

Crossing a farmer’s field always feels a little strange to be walking on their property; but, it is common practice on various walks in England.

I often think my dad would have enjoyed having hikers cross our family farmland.

Trail directions said turn at the hollow tree, so we did. Unfortunately, we didn’t see any Keebler Elves making cookies in it.

The last mile took us along a canal. Some people travel in a houseboat along canals in England.

We made it to our lovely hotel just as it started to rain.

History of the Stonehouse Court Hotel, very old place.

Cotswold Walk – Day 5

Birdlip to Painswick

11 miles / 17.7 km

Wow, 5 days in a row with marvelous weather…no complaints here!

We left around 8:30 AM with nice blue skies. Even though rain was forecasted, nary a drop fell during our walk. However, a nice summer shower occurred late in the afternoon after we were already nice & dry inside our accommodations.

Most of the day we were high in the Cotswold hills walking through shady green forests.

One interesting part of the walk took us past the very steep Cooper’s Hill which is world renown for cheese rolling!!!

Every year at the end of May, the locals enjoy rolling a cheese wheel weighing several kilos down Cooper’s Hill which is 200 meters long with an almost vertical slope. The cheese wheel rolls down the hill at almost 70mph which basically makes it uncatchable; so the winner is the first person to cross the finish line down at the base. First prize is the cheese wheel. Too bad we missed this unique event by a couple weeks

Like on all other days, many locals were using the paths & the woods to walk their dogs, run, mountain bike, or simply take a nice walk. Those of us hikers passing through the area on the way to Bath are small in numbers compared to the locals. I’m a bit jealous that they have such lovely nature paths so close to their homes.

When we reached Painswick, we explored the nearby Rococo Garden which was started in the 1700s. After the rococo style fell out of favor, the garden fell into disuse & ruin for a couple hundred years before being restored.

Current garden view

For a few hours, we enjoyed walking in this special garden which is the only rococo garden in England.

Painswick is yet another extremely charming, old Cotswold village. Every street here has its own charm & history.

Typical charming cottage in Painswick