Camino: Day 20

Distance: 19 Km ( 11.8 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 49-58°

Time on trail: 5 hours including breaks

We welcomed our day with this glorious sunrise.

As we left town we noticed the church steeple had 2 large white stork nests waiting for the birds to return next spring.

As we walked, we passed these familiar crosses. I enjoy reading the messages left by pilgrims.

I loved this message left for friends who were further behind on the trail.

Many people take rest days on the Camino while others do not. With pilgrims walking at different paces, the saddest part on the Camino is no longer seeing friends you have made along the way. But then, you make new ones.

Here is a young Korean girl we met in the past few days. She speaks good English so we are able to have nice conversations.

I believe she is hiking on her own; but, with her friendly personality, she has no problem making friends.

Around 11:30 & past the half way point, we came into the small town named Reliegos.

I was hungry, thirsty, & needed a bathroom break, so it was perfect timing to find this small bar. By the time we left, it was full of pilgrims inside & out.

Reliegos is a cute town and feels like a tiny Santa Fe, NM. It’s known for its tomatoes. A meteorite also fell here in 1947.

A little less than 2 hours later we arrived in Mansilla de las Mulas.

This small town dates back to Roman times. In 70AD, the Romans built a wall around the city. Parts still exist today.

In the 11th & 12 Centuries, Mansilla was the largest & richest market town in this region, especially for livestock which explains its name “de las mulas” (of the mules.)

Mansilla has always been a major stop for pilgrims walking the French route. Although its grandeur has faded, it’s still a lovely place for pilgrims today.

After a short rest in our hotel, we took a stroll around town in the light rain.

Tomorrow will be our last day walking the Meseta which ends the 2nd major stage on the French Camino.

Camino: Day 19

Distance: 17 KM (10.5 miles)

Weather: cloudy & rainy with some wind, 40-54°

Time on trail: 5 hours including breaks

With rain forecasted, we left the hotel around 8:20 already wearing our rain gear.

As we walked out of Sahagun, we saw more murals.

We also saw the Monastery of San Benito el Real from which the only Neoclassical arch still remains.

The only long stop we made along the way was in Bercianos Del Real Camino.

After a few hours in the rain, I was ready for a cafe con leche. After we removed our wet ponchos, I ordered my coffee and a freshly made chocolate croissants.

It was a lovely bar with a fire and nice American music playing.

However, I’m sure the young people in the bar had never heard these songs (Paul Simon- 50 Ways to Leave Your Lover and Joe Cocker & Jennifer Warnes- Up Where We Belong).

Then it was time to gear up again and return to the trail.

We have been very surprised by the cold weather. We didn’t expect to ever hike in 40° weather in Spain. Thankfully, we both packed clothes to cover this contingency.

Check out the cool water proof gloves on the table. Cheap but effective! 🤣 I hope no one asks us to wash dishes

Bercianos is a lovely little village with a few homes and buildings made from clay & straw in the adobe style. They appear to be very old. The fact they are still standing proves this area gets little water. Lucky us to experience it. 😂

After taking the above pictures, a local women started a conversation with us. The fact that I actually sometimes knew what she was saying gives me confidence to continue my Duolingo lessons.

A few sightings before leaving town.

Most of the path today was down a path beneath trees on one side. I called it the Camino Avenue de Árboles.

During the summer months this area can easily reach over 100°. I’m wondering if the trees were planted to provide pilgrims with some shade on hot days. We enjoyed the protection it provided from the rain & wind.

Two hours after leaving the warm cozy bar we arrived at our destination for today: El Burgo Ranero.

It was nice to have a short day. Even with the rain, it was pleasant walk.

Camino: Day 17

Distance: 17 KM (10.5 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, 42-58°

Time on trail: 4.25 hours including stops

HALF WAY THERE!

Since it was going to be a short day with good weather in the forecast, we got started around 9:00.

It was an absolutely perfect day. We started out with many layers, but kept shedding a layer every hour or so. No rain or high winds. Perfect!

Our hotel did not provide breakfast so we enjoyed our tea & toast with the locals.

It was Sunday morning and a few men came into the bar dressed in camouflage. They appeared to be getting a cup of coffee before going bird hunting.

Outside one man was pulling a small trailer behind his car for his hunting dog. Unlike in America, few people own pickup trucks.

Later, we saw men out hunting. All along the Camino we have seen signs on property saying it was reserved for hunting. Appears to be a popular local sport.

As we left Carrion, we passed over another beautiful bridge and walked pass the San Zoilo Monastery which dates back to 948!

Once we left Carrion, we were once again walking along the same road used by Santiago pilgrims for over a 1,000 years.

Most of today’s route was on the Via Aquitana which was built flat & straight by the Romans.

At the half way point we came across a very lovely pop-up outdoor cafe. I enjoyed a café con leche & coconut cake. I think the cake was actually good enough for a Paul Hollywood handshake.

An hour later, off came my jacket & vest. How lucky to have such a nice day on the meseta. Almost too bad it was a short walking day.

At the same time, my right leg still hurt, so it’s always nice to have some shorter days to help me to recover.

Pilgrim taking a break along the way.

We arrived into Calzadilla around 1:15 pm.

Hard to believe we have been walking for 17 days & have 17 more days to go before reaching Santiago.

We have walked 395 KM (245 miles). We average 14 miles a day. Usually around 2 mph including our various stops en route.

It’s been a wonderful experience!

Camino: Day 16

Distance: 19 KM (11.8 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, moderate wind, 39-50°

Time on trail: 5.2 hours including breaks

Since it is no longer hot and the sun continues to come up later, we see no reason to start before 8:30.

This morning it was very cold. Once again I had on 5 layers on my torso and 2 layers on my legs. We weren’t expecting it to be this cold this early during the hike.

We were very happy to see the sun get up high in the sky. After one very rainy day followed by one super windy day , I was looking forward to a day with neither.

Unfortunately, the Camino has a way of reminding you this isn’t supposed to be easy. Today was actually the first day I walked in pain.

With flat land I felt I could pickup my pace and make good progress. After doing this for the first few hours, my right shin began to ache. By noon I needed good ole vitamin I (ibuprofen) to finish the last 4 miles.

The first village we passed today was Problacion de Campos.

From here we had 2 choices to make: Walk next to the river or the highway. We chose the river.

As we walked, all I could think was how much this landscape looked like the Texas Panhandle landscape where I grew up.

As you walk along there are constant reminders you are on the Camino De Santiago.

After passing a few villages the pain in my right leg intensified. I was happy to see this lone church up ahead for a chance to rest.

The last large village before Carrion de los Condes was Villalcazar de Sirga. We still needed to walk another 3+ miles. Perfect time to visit a bar for a cafe con leche.

To my surprise my 2 Korean friends were there as well having lunch.

After a few pictures of the local church, it was time to finish up the day.

As we were walking through the village a door was open. I saw that a woman was working on a lace piece. She let me take a picture, but not of her. I so wish I spoke more Spanish because she wanted to tell me about what she was doing and explain the pictures on her wall.

This is a typical street in these small villages on the meseta.

We then joined the pathway next to the highway leading us into Carrion de los Condes which is our home for the night.

For the past few days we have walked with this young woman from China who recently moved to Spain. Her English is excellent and I enjoy our daily conversations.

Today I told her she had to watch the movie “The Good, The Bad and The Ugly” because it was made in Spain.

Westerns movies could still be made here without a problem.

Tomorrow we will hit our half way mark and go below 400 KM to reach Santiago.

“Buen Camino”

Camino: Day 14

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: rainy & high winds, 49-59°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 20 minutes

2nd Weekly total: 162 KM (100.6 miles)

Grand total: 334 KM (207.5 miles)

We have now survived our first rainy day on the Camino. We started out wearing our rain jackets, rain paints and rain ponchos and never took them off.

The meseta was also true to form by having consistent high winds most of the day and especially the last 1km.

After 2 hours and 40 minutes we were happy to make it to Hontanas for a nice break.

We are making progress.

Not long after Hontanas it started to rain again and never stopped.

About 5 KM (3.1 miles) later we reached the San Anton ruins in the pouring rain.

For years food & drink has been left in these portals for the passing pilgrims. Now a nice volunteer & resting spot is located inside.

The Tau Cross is also shown here.

In the pouring rain and very high winds, we made the last 4 KM (2.4 miles) to Castrojeriz.

Like the sign on the highway. We were happy to be at our hotel.

Camino: Day 13

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: rainy, cloudy & very windy, 57-67°

Time on route: 6 hours including breaks

Burgos was a lovely surprise. We had not expected to find it so interesting and charming. There is much more we could have explored.

With the rain prediction we decided to enjoy a late breakfast and exited our hotel around 8:30. Even though the rain was light, we still thought it was best to put on our ponchos

It is the first large city we have walked through without clear markings for the trail. Thankfully my husband had a guide book that helped us find our way.

Because the Camino is a pilgrimage the trail always takes you by a church.

Beautiful mural behind the cathedral.

In 2021 Burgos had an art exhibit promoting the Camino with 39 silhouettes. We spotted many as we continued to walk through the city. Unlike yesterday’s entry into Burgos, the exit was very pleasant.

I had hoped I would meet people from around the world on this pilgrimage.

As I have mentioned on past postings I have become friends with two young Korean women. We are unable to say much to each other, but always smile & hug when we meet on the trail each day.

I also have a short chat each day with a young woman from Italy and another from Mexico. They are short friendships, but all feel very special.

Others we have only met briefly and always wave when we pass.

We finally have less than 500 KM to go.

We made a cafe con leche & bathroom break in Tardajos.

A short time later we pass through Rabe de Las Calzadas. It was a charming little town filled with colorful religious murals.

We have reached the meseta. A large plateau that covers 81,000 square miles (210,000 sq KM). It is known for its extreme weather. Hot in the summer & cold in the winter. It will take us 9 days to cross it.

I love it’s vast landscape and big sky in spite of the high winds.

Only one more mile to go to reach Hornillos.

The best part about the meseta is that it follows the exact same route used by all pilgrims since Queen Isabella. It will feel like walking within history.

Camino: Day 12 (stage one completed)

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy & windy, 57-70°

Time on trail: 4 hours 40 minutes

Total distance: 293 KM (182 miles)

After a pleasant stay at an old hotel with quaint wood beams and rustic wooden doors we headed for the Camino trail at 8:00.

Thankfully a few fellow pilgrims were leaving at the same time showing us the way in the darkness.

This was our last day in the mountainous-hilly region of the Camino. Tomorrow we will start walking the flat section.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we reached the Matagrande summit.

At the top we came across this beautiful poem.

Since the pilgrim dominated the mountains of Navarre and saw the vast fields of Spain. She has not enjoyed a more beautiful sight like this.

In the far distance we could see our final destination for the day, the city of Burgos.

Fun sightings

A special thing about walking the Camino is the “Buen Camino,” greeting you receive from fellow pilgrims and the locals. You also see it at homes as you walk along.

Cleaver way to display flowers & recycle garbage.

After many km/miles walking on the tarmac we approached the outskirts of Burgos, passed the airport & industrial section. It wasn’t my favorite.

We did see this one funny sign.

Finally reached Burgos after an hour.

Camino signs & other sightings

After our earliest arrival time, we enjoyed doing a little touring of Burgos.

Visiting the Cathedral de Santa Maria was the highlight of Borgos.

It is made up of many small chapels inside with beautiful ceilings. It also contains the tomb for El Cid and his wife.

Just another great day on the Camino.