Hard to believe this is day 11 on our hike. Seems like we just started a few days ago! I had to look at the map to realize we have walked over 120 miles so far.
Today the company that arranged our trek & luggage transfers gave us a short 4.5 miles to walk. On our last Camino two years ago, we would have begged for a 4.5 mile day. On that trek we averaged 14.5 miles a day… for 38 straight days.
Even though we could have easily walked further, with afternoon rain in the forecast (which did occur), it was nice to be done before noon & be dry.
Redondela is a quaint Spanish town with many old buildings still standing.
Small cobblestone streetsAt one time, animals were kept below & living quarters were aboveHome with old granary out front
Now that many more people have joined the Camino, there is a steady flow of walkers on the route. As the day progresses, people become more & more spread out.
Pilgrims leaving Redondela on the way up the first big hill. We saw a few people on our last Camino walking with their dog, but this is our first time to see 2 dogs walking the trail together
At breakfast, we heard these two lovely ladies stating they had started this Camino 33 days ago in Lisbon & were carrying all their belongings.
We later met them on the trail & had a short chat. They are from Canada & are 79 years old!!! Maybe I’ll be lucky enough to still be walking Caminos at that age. 🤞
We had not seen people jettisoning their shoes until today. Maybe they were uncomfortable or too heavy; but, no Camino is complete without seeing abandoned footwear.
However, others like to leave memories of loved ones or just stuff to show they were here.
Evidently, Halloween has become an event celebrated worldwide.
This home gets the award for most clever decorations.
A few things caught our attention on our short walk.
Old fountainExample showing the many languages spoken by people who walk the CaminoCute cafe in ArcadeA Mail box along with a Bread box at a house. Soooo wish that bread delivery was possible where I live. A country that understands the importance of fresh baked bread has the right priorities. 🤣Here’s a view into a bread delivery van. There is a wide assortment available, not just French bread!
View from the hill we crested today to reach Arcade.
We finally reached a marker indicating less than 100km to Santiago
Our hike today was 10 miles in constant on & off rain.
About the time we thought the rain was finished, we would remove our rain ponchos & within 10-15 minutes, another rain shower would start causing us to gear up again. Such is life for a pilgrim on the Camino.
Here are a few images from when we walked out of Vigo.
Rainy start to the dayHalloween cookiesCitroen 2CV- my favorite old European car- notice the canvas, roll-back sunroofThese fruit stores are very popular in Spain
In the previous two days, we only saw 9 pilgrims in total. Today, we saw close to that many in the first hour.
To receive the Compostela Certificate in Santiago, you have to walk at least 100 km & collect stamps along the way in your Pilgrim Passport proving you walked it.
Vigo is exactly 100 km from Santiago which explains why we are now seeing more people on the path.
After climbing up a paved road on a very steep hill,to leave Vigo, we reached a nice flat plateau that wound through another eucalyptus & oak forest for several miles.
Some fun art work along the way.
Rande Bridge
Before reaching Redondela, we enjoyed a short rest at the Church of Santo Andre.
Church of Saint AndrePilgrim statue on the church facade
Our 12 mile walk today was an another enjoyable ramble. Rain was forecasted, so we wore our rain gear as we left Nigrán.
I added my poncho when I thought we were going to get a heavy rain.
However, there was hardly any precipitation & the clouds kept the temps in the low 60s which was lovely.
This water reservoir resting area would have been a great stop to use yesterday in the pouring rain.
Not long after leaving Nigrán we had a steady up hill climb to a forested area. This time the forest contained oak & chestnut trees. The ground was covered with furry looking chestnut husks.
It was lovely to have a nice fall walk through the forest.
Only 115 km to go. Ocean View
We passed by a very cute pilgrim spot to get a stamp in our Camino passports & had fun looking at all the decorations.
Along the walk we met 2 men on their way to Santiago. Simon who is around our age is from Chester, England, near Liverpool; Boris is a 45 year old man from Berlin.
Around noon we all stopped at a small pub. I had my usual cafe con leche. We had fun having a nice chat.
I think meeting new people on the Camino is the biggest bonus along the way
Boris ended up walking with us the rest of the way to Vigo. Since he lives in Berlin, we loved talking with him about our time in Berlin. He had also lived in London for 5 years, so his English was impeccable making it very easy to converse.
When we reached the outskirts, it took another hour to reach the Vigo city center. It’s a rather large city. As in many cities, graffiti is common on large walls.
I’ve always wanted to visit Seville. My oldest known maternal grandfather to leave Europe was named Antonio Gil Caesar Flores. He was born in Seville in 1719 & went to the New World with his parents in 1725. He moved to the Tejas region in New Spain which is now part of western Louisiana in the United States.
When I walked around the old city, it was very moving knowing some of these beautiful buildings were also there when he & his parents left to make a new future.
The Seville Cathedral was completed in 1519. It’s the largest Gothic church in the world.
Christopher Columbus now rests here.
The cathedral’s altar & organ.
The Giralda or Bell Tower was once a minaret for the Great Mosque when Seville was under Muslim rule during the Almohad Dynasty. Once the Christians defeated the Muslims, both the mosque & minaret were transformed into a church & bell tower containing 24 bells.
It is actually taller than Big Ben in London.
At night & during the day when I heard the bells ring, I wondered if my ancestors heard the same pealing of the bells before they left for the New World.
Another impressive old structure is the Alcazar Palace. Here is a brief history along with some images from it. Spain’s Royal family still lives in part of it when they are in Seville. It’s very beautiful & with its elegant & colorful geometric designs, it reminded me of historical homes in Isfahan, Iran.
We just so happened to be in Seville when the Latin Grammy’s were held. The night before the awards show, we saw fans lined up outside the swankiest hotel waiting for their favorite singer to appear.
The Christmas market outside the cathedral was selling items I had never seen before. All the shops were full of items not only to make a miniature nativity scene; but also, to construct the entire Bethlehem village. Much like an elaborate train set, no detail is missing. I wonder how much room these nativity scenes take up in Spanish homes at Christmas time.
Another Seville highlight was visiting the Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza where bullfights are still held in the spring & summer. Started in 1760, it is Spain’s oldest bullring & took 120 years to finish. This is also where modern bullfighting that we know today originated.
We also enjoyed a few of Seville’s special food treats. One was at the Convento de San Leandro where the nuns who are completely cloistered make a very unique cookie. Fortunately, a nice Spanish couple helped us obtain the cookies which are more akin to candy than a cookie.
First, I placed money on a lazy susan contraption, rang a bell to let the nuns know we were ordering, told the nun what we wanted, then spun around the lazy susan with our payment. A few moments later the lazy susan spun again & our cookies appeared. Never once did we see a nun’s face or even a hand.
Flamenco dancing is very popular in Seville. We didn’t make it to the Flamenco Museum or see a show; but, we saw stores selling the clothes. Fans are sold everywhere.
I’m very puzzled why Spain as well as all of Europe now has Black Friday sales? I thought that was strictly Kim an American thing. 🧐
Interesting buildings both old & new can be seen throughout the city. And, of course, Seville has some street performers.
Before leaving the city, we walked along the Guadalquivir River.
After the New World was discovered, Seville’s port became Spain’s economic center. Seville thrived in the 16th & 17th Centuries until Cadiz became Spain’s main port.
Even though Seville was past it’s hey day when my grandfather lived there, I’m sure it was still a vibrant city. Moving to the New World would have been a really big change for a young boy.
Seville is a wonderful old historical city. Even though Seville is known as being the hottest major city in Europe, I’m happy to see it is now a popular tourist locale. A perfect place to be in autumn or spring when the temperatures are pleasantly warm.
Many streets & squares are lined with orange trees and reminders from the past mix beautifully with the present here.
We did our best to hit a few high points as well as enjoy the local food.
The Royal Palace was very nice & is still used today for official visits. Unfortunately, no photos are allowed in most of its beautiful rooms; but, they were as spectacular as expected from being in a royal palace.
Among my favorites was a room made entirely from porcelain. My husband admired the Royal Armory with its armor & weapons collection that has been open to the public for over 400 years. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in there as well.
Fun window shopping.
Man walking his 4 little dogs. They were all chained together & followed him down the street without being on a leash.
Trees made from ornamental kale.
You can also find the center of Spain in Madrid. It’s the starting point for measuring the distances for Spain’s six national roads.
Kilometer Zero marker in Puerta del Sol square marks Spain’s symbolic center
Food was a big highlight to our day.
Middle Eastern Breakfast Toast with Chocolate Pistachio Babka at GoldaHeard of a lobster roll? Here they have a calamari roll.
We enjoy watching the show “Somebody Feed Phil” on Netflix. Here are a few places where we ate that were featured on that show.
Casa Dani in El Mercado de La PazYummy breakfast Spanish egg Tortilla de Patata at Casa Dani Chocolatería San Gines which opened in 1894 features Churros dipped in thick Hot Chocolate as its specialty. YUM!!! 😋
Tapas!!! An entire market called Mercado de San Miguel is devoted to tapas. There are easily over 30 vendors selling different foods which means there is something for everyone.
Restaurante Sobrino de Botín in Madrid was founded in 1725 making it the world’s oldest restaurant. It still uses its original oven & is known for its suckling pig & lamb roast.
Madrid also had some old stores. This confectionery store has been operating since 1775. Older than the USA!
I needed some water & stopped in a supermarket. I was surprised to see a big Mexican food section. Our hotel was also having Mexican cuisine week. Looks like some food has come full circle.
Had a lovely time in Madrid. Hope to return for another visit some day.
Distance: 16 KM + 6 KM round trip to the lighthouse (13.7 miles)
Weather: cloudy, 61-64°
Time on trail: 4 hours + 2 hours round trip to the lighthouse
Total days walked: 38 (consecutive days; no rest days)
Total distance walked: 894 Kilometers (555.5 miles)
After many rainy days, we finally had a day with no rain & warm temperatures. Wow, what a blessing!!
We started at 8:50 with a more than a full breakfast. Today’s final walk was only a short 10 miles, so no need for a café con leche or omelette break today.
My last pilgrim silhouette Cee harbor Looking back to CeeCorcubion villageLast pair of abandoned shoes which were in great shape 🧐
One our last day, we walked along old wagon trails through eucalyptus & pine forests.
Plus we saw many mushrooms.
We walked through the small village called Estorde. A home caught our eye because it had scallop shells all over its exterior. The owner heard us talking, came outside, & offered us a shot for which he would not take no for an answer. We think it was a type of brandy.
After a few hours we reached the coastline.
We headed down to the beach to walk a few of the last KM & collect a few seashells.
Once we found our hotel in Finisterre & enjoyed a 30 minute break, we headed for the lighthouse & the Camino’s official end point that was still 3.1 KM (1.86 miles) away.
Last pilgrim statue
We finally made it to KM 0.000!!!!!
It has been a few years since I have done something physically hard. I wasn’t sure I could walk 894 KM (555 miles). I’m actually amazed I did! We averaged 14.5 miles a day. It wasn’t easy; but, it was a very enjoyable experience which will be impossible to forget.
Views from the End of the World.
On both the way to & from the lighthouse, we met a few old Camino friends who had also made the 4 day journey to Finisterre. It was nice to see them one last time.
My second goal for the Camino was to meet people from around the world. We met & talked with people from 25 different countries. Many folks I would welcome into my home. Most walkers came from European countries; but, we also met many from Canada & Korea.
Here is some history about Finisterre & why many pilgrims try to come here after reaching Santiago.
We only had one thing left to do to complete our journey across Spain… laundry.
Now we are ready for Phase 2 in our trip. Next stops in Spain will be in Madrid, Seville, & Barcelona. To continue our journey, we are taking a bus back to Santiago & then taking trains to our other destinations. We are both looking forward to seeing & experiencing more of Spain.
I’ll continue to post to this blog until we are home; so, if you are interested, then come along with the Wanderers.
Time on the trail: 7 hours 20 minutes including all breaks & stops
From the moment we stepped out the hotel’s door until noon, water fell from the sky. Within 30 minutes our outer gear was once again soaking wet.
Having no choice, we simply moved on hoping the precipitation would not last all day.
We entered a new province in Galicia.
Lunch was around noon at the last bar open for the next 15 KM. It was called Pilgrim Hospital which is so appropriate for hungry, tired, & wet pilgrims on their way to Finisterre.
Café con leche & eggs became my go to lunch over the entire Camino. Nothing like a little protein & a mild stimulant to get an old hiker through the rest of the day. 😁
Super thankful that the rain let up some after lunch at which time it was replaced by fog. Additionally, we walked past many clear-cut fields from which forests were felled. Felt like home in Washington.
We had a few interesting sightings along the way.
Be sure to read the 2nd paragraph about the werewolf.
Our trail split here. One going west to Finisterre & the other going north to Muxia.
A volunteer station operated on the honor system.
Another bar closed for the season.
Big Pilgrim shoes to fill
We also passed the old church called Ermita de Nuestra Señora de las Nieves which dates to the 18th Century.
The water from the spring by the chapel is supposed to help female animals & nursing mothers. The water is believed to help aching feet. Perfect for a passing pilgrim.
An hour later, another old church provided us with the perfect spot to rest before walking to Cee.
Our first view of the Atlantic Ocean.
To paraphrase Cheryl Strayed from her book “Wild” about her perspective as she hiked the Pacific Coast Trail:
“It has gotten easier, but, it is never easy. “
This is exactly how I felt when we arrived at the hotel around 4:20. Always happy to be finished.
My husband & I have talked about what makes a day easier or harder on the trail.
These are the factors listed in no particular order which we feel determines whether a day is easy or hard on the trail:
1. Physical condition (aches, pains, ailments)
2. Distance to cover
3. Terrain along the path
4. Trail Quality
5. Weather
Today is the 37th straight day we walked & are averaging just over 14 miles a day!
I’m a little sad that tomorrow will be our last day hiking when we reach Cape Finisterre; but I think my feet, legs, & knees will be extremely happy. Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) has become more important over the past few days than I would prefer.
Time on trail: 7 hours 50 including all breaks & stops
We were told to expect rain in Galicia in November which has been true. Today started with a light mist, then changed to a continuous drizzle by mid-morning which then became constant rain in the afternoon.
Seeing rain was in the forecast along with a having 17 mile day, we made sure we left early.
The hotel ensured we had a good breakfast by serving huge croissants.
Negreira looks like an old English or Irish town. Not surprising since the entire Camino has strong Celtic connections.
Unlike yesterday, we saw many hikers on the trail; but, far less than our days heading towards Santiago.
For most of the morning, the trail passed an through beautiful woods & was often on old wagon paths.
I absolutely love how the Spaniards are so creative with recycling various items for planters & decorations.
A few sights along the way today.
More dairy cattle & smelly barnyardsMushrooms of all varieties
Thankfully, a nice bar which was a perfect location for us to have lunch at noon.
If you have been reading this blog, then you know my favorite trail drink.Check out this egg sandwich for only 4€!!! Big enough for both of us.
It was fine until around 1:30 pm; but, gradually the drizzle turned into constant rain for the rest of the day.
Our last rest stop. We were happy to find some shelter from the rain to take a break. From here, we hiked for almost another 2 hours to reach our hotel.
From what little I could see due to the rain & fog over our last stretch, this area is very green with rolling hills. It looked & felt like Ireland.
We were very happy to see our hotel just before 5:00 pm. The temperatures were in the high 50s, so it wasn’t cold; but, we were both very wet from head to toe.
Unlike at every other places we stayed, the hotel clerk didn’t ask for our passports; but, took us directly to our room. He also told us when the bus leaves tomorrow for Finisterre. When we said we were walking there, his response was “Perfecto!”
Rain is forecasted again for all day tomorrow; but, at least it’s a shorter walk.
Our hotel has a restaurant, so fortunately we don’t need to go back out into the rain this evening.
Time on trail: 6 hours 10 minutes including all breaks & stops
Yesterday, I was extremely tired once we reached our hotel around 1:30 pm. At that moment, I wasn’t so sure I’d be up to do 4 more days on the trail.
However, after an afternoon nap & a good night’s sleep, I was once again ready to go.
We enjoyed a leisurely breakfast along with our new German friend who was staying in the same hotel.
We learned that she had walked the Camino many times & had done different routes. The Camino Primitivo was her favorite; but, she also enjoyed the Camino Portugues which follows a coastal route. Good food for thought if we decide to walk another Camino.
On Tuesday, she decided to take advantage of the nice weather & walked a double leg all the way into Santiago arriving in the early evening. So, on Wednesday morning, she was among the first pilgrims in line at the pilgrim office.
For many years, the 1st ten pilgrims in line each morning to pick up their completion certificate have been offered a free lunch at the Hostal Reís Católicos (oldest hotel in the world.) She said it was very nice.
Capitalizing on the nicer weather this morning, we snapped few pictures around the cathedral before heading on our way.
Magnificent structure Look for the 3 pilgrims Entrance into the cathedral
I wasn’t sure if we would still have the yellow arrows guiding us to Finisterre; but, thankful we do, along with the ubiquitous KM markers.
Our last view of Santiago with the cathedral dominating the skyline.
On our way again.
There are very few bars on this Camino. You have to hope to find one open that is used more by the locals than pilgrims. This one came along at the perfect time.
Notice no other customers
We saw very few pilgrims/hikers today; but, to our great surprise, this young Korean man was on his way to Finisterre. We have seen him off & on during the entire trek.
It was great to see him again & finally learn his name.
Even though it wasn’t the weekend, some men were bird hunting with their dogs.
After a long steady climb, we found this nice spot in the eucalyptus woods to enjoy our lunch.
Other sights along the way.
No Bull, a Real Bull Farm🤣
We crossed a very old stone bridge at Ponte Maceira which was built in the 14th Century & refurbished in the 18th Century.
A Spanish village.
Tomorrow is our last very long hike. We plan to start earlier & take more breaks. Forecast is for rain all day. Unfortunately, there will be few places along the route, possibly with a bar where I can enjoy a break for a cafe con leche.
It’s official, we walked into Santiago today.! The forecast showed rain all day & that’s exactly what it did.
But, a little rain is not going to stop people who have already walked over 475 miles.
We were on the trail at 8:40 wearing all our rain gear.
Fortunately, today was a short walk. An hour into our walk, we saw our young friend from Italy. She stayed with us the rest of the way.
At one time pilgrims would stop near here to wash & clean themselves before reaching SantiagoOnly 10 KM to go
The count down begins.
It is hard to explain the feelings you have when you reach the Cathedral Santiago de Compostela. Pure joy & disbelief are just two.
We did it!
Pictures never do justice to this church. It is incredibly large & you can feel it’s all encompassing presence. Experiencing it justifies all the time spent to reach it.
After we arrived, we watched trail friends arrive. Many hugs & big smiles were included in the greetings.
Young girls from Italy & Mexico1st day jacket saver
We also had hugs with several Koreans who had been walking with us from the 1st day as well.
Our next stop was inside the cathedral.
AltarEntering the crypt St James’ remainsBotafumeiro- large incense burner that swings in church during select masses. It is said that it was initially swung to cover up the pilgrims’ smell.
Next we went to the pilgrim office where you show your pilgrim passport with all the stamps collected on it since the start. You need at least one stamp each day which are collected from hotels, churches, restaurants, & volunteer stations.
Once you show your passport stamps to the official at the pilgrim office, you are issued the official completion certificate.
Our last stamp!!!Completion Certificate- My name is written in Latin tooNo more KM to go.
Our hotel adjacent to the cathedral was once a 16th Century Monastery.
In the square next to the cathedral is the world’s oldest hotel started in 1489 by Queen Isabella & King Ferdinand to accommodate pilgrims.
We celebrated at our evening meal with a Torte de Santiago.
What a day!!!
Tomorrow, we head for what was once believed to be the “end of the world”, hence its name Finisterre. I hope my knees, feet, & legs can handle walking another 90 KM. It will be interesting to see if we know anyone from the Camino Frances on the trail or make new friends along the way.
The Wanderers 