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October 18, 2023

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Camino de Santiago, Europe, Spain

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BURGOS – HORNILLOS DEL CAMINO

Camino: Day 13

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: rainy, cloudy & very windy, 57-67°

Time on route: 6 hours including breaks

Burgos was a lovely surprise. We had not expected to find it so interesting and charming. There is much more we could have explored.

With the rain prediction we decided to enjoy a late breakfast and exited our hotel around 8:30. Even though the rain was light, we still thought it was best to put on our ponchos

It is the first large city we have walked through without clear markings for the trail. Thankfully my husband had a guide book that helped us find our way.

Because the Camino is a pilgrimage the trail always takes you by a church.

Beautiful mural behind the cathedral.

In 2021 Burgos had an art exhibit promoting the Camino with 39 silhouettes. We spotted many as we continued to walk through the city. Unlike yesterday’s entry into Burgos, the exit was very pleasant.

I had hoped I would meet people from around the world on this pilgrimage.

As I have mentioned on past postings I have become friends with two young Korean women. We are unable to say much to each other, but always smile & hug when we meet on the trail each day.

I also have a short chat each day with a young woman from Italy and another from Mexico. They are short friendships, but all feel very special.

Others we have only met briefly and always wave when we pass.

My Korean friends that are too shy for a close picture

We finally have less than 500 KM to go.

We made a cafe con leche & bathroom break in Tardajos.

A short time later we pass through Rabe de Las Calzadas. It was a charming little town filled with colorful religious murals.

We have reached the meseta. A large plateau that covers 81,000 square miles (210,000 sq KM). It is known for its extreme weather. Hot in the summer & cold in the winter. It will take us 9 days to cross it.

I love it’s vast landscape and big sky in spite of the high winds.

Only one more mile to go to reach Hornillos.

The best part about the meseta is that it follows the exact same route used by all pilgrims since Queen Isabella. It will feel like walking within history.

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October 17, 2023

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Camino de Santiago, Europe, Spain

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ATAPUERCA to BURGOS

Route Information (We left from ATAPUERCA)

Camino: Day 12 (stage one completed)

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy & windy, 57-70°

Time on trail: 4 hours 40 minutes

Total distance: 293 KM (182 miles)

After a pleasant stay at an old hotel with quaint wood beams and rustic wooden doors we headed for the Camino trail at 8:00.

Thankfully a few fellow pilgrims were leaving at the same time showing us the way in the darkness.

This was our last day in the mountainous-hilly region of the Camino. Tomorrow we will start walking the flat section.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we reached the Matagrande summit.

At the top we came across this beautiful poem.

Since the pilgrim dominated the mountains of Navarre and saw the vast fields of Spain. She has not enjoyed a more beautiful sight like this.

In the far distance we could see our final destination for the day, the city of Burgos.

Fun sightings

A special thing about walking the Camino is the “Buen Camino,” greeting you receive from fellow pilgrims and the locals. You also see it at homes as you walk along.

Cleaver way to display flowers & recycle garbage.

After many km/miles walking on the tarmac we approached the outskirts of Burgos, passed the airport & industrial section. It wasn’t my favorite.

We did see this one funny sign.

Finally reached Burgos after an hour.

Camino signs & other sightings

After our earliest arrival time, we enjoyed doing a little touring of Burgos.

Casa del Cordón, Christopher Columbus was welcomed here by Queen Isabella & King Ferdinand after his return from the second trip to America.

Visiting the Cathedral de Santa Maria was the highlight of Borgos.

It is made up of many small chapels inside with beautiful ceilings. It also contains the tomb for El Cid and his wife.

Just another great day on the Camino.

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October 15, 2023

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Camino de Santiago, Europe, Spain

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SANTO DOMINGO – BELORADO

Camino: Day 10

Distance: 23 KM (14.2 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 51-70°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 50 minutes including all breaks

Left our hotel around 8:20. With the cool weather all morning we made good progress, averaging a faster pace than on previous days.

The first few days I averaged 1.5 miles an hour. The last few days have been around 2.0 mph. But this morning I actually got up to 3.0 mph!!!

Each morning I wonder if I can walk several miles again, but once on the trail my body falls into a rhythm moving along. It seems to be saying, “Okay, I guessing we are walking now.”

So far few blisters and no tendonitis.

Only time will tell if this will continue. Hopefully yes. Fingers crossed. 🤞

First break spot of the day. For me, a good time for a café con leche & potty break.

Our way out of town.

We passed into the Castilla y León region today.

One way to find the route is to look for yellow arrows painted on buildings, the road and posts.

I often sing the song from the Wizard of Oz ‘Follow the Yellow Brick Road’ changing the words to ‘Follow the Yellow Arrows.’ Only this time the original words work.

More images along the way today.

Many people have written poems or sayings on any flat surface they can find. Here are 2 from today.

Our last rest stop before the last 3 miles into Belorado.

Outskirts of Belorado.

Hotel at last.

Exploring Belorado.

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October 14, 2023

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NÁJERA – SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA

Camino: Day 9

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: partly sunny & cloudy 56-70 degrees

Time on trail: 5.5 hours including breaks

Our hotel didn’t serve breakfast until 8:00 so we didn’t get started until 8:30.

After 2 long days it felt nice to sleep in a little. Plus the cooler temps felt great.

We were happy to once again see many of our fellow pilgrims along the way that we had missed the day before.

We left walking past the last of the vineyards.

The path then led us over many small hills until we reached Azofra.

The rest of the day we were able to see the path for miles into the distance along with pilgrims moving at their own pace.

It was a beautiful walk with various colors to entertain our eyes. I am never bored. It is interesting to see small groups, families and solo travelers all going in the same direction to Santiago.

We reached our hotel in Santo Domingo around 2:00pm. As always, we rest with our legs up the wall for 20-30 minutes before cleaning up & washing out our clothes. Today I had the luxury of hanging my clothes outside to dry.

The highlight of the day was to visit the cathedral in Santo Domingo.

Read the story below about the miracle of Santo Domingo.

Today you can still see live chickens inside the cathedral.

More pictures from inside the church.

They even have a pastry about the legend.

The bell tower and view from the top. When we looked into the distance we could see the path we came down to enter the city as pilgrims having been doing for centuries.

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October 13, 2023

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Logroño to Najera

We have left the province of Navarra and entered La Rioja. We noticed fewer directional signs showing distance to the next town and no sign with good details about the route. This is why the above map is now different.

Camino: Day 8

Distance: 28 KM (17.3 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 52-75 degrees

Time on trail: 7 hours & 40 minutes including all breaks

Once again we had breakfast at 7:00 and left the hotel at 7:30.

Logroño is a large town so it took us 20 minutes to leave town. As we entered the La Grajera Park we saw a beautiful sunrise.

Before leaving the park we came across this interesting shop selling traditional walking sticks pilgrim trinkets.

From this point we stared a slow climb through many vineyards. This is Spain’s main wine region called La Rioja.

This long wire fence protecting us from the highway below was decorated with crosses made from sticks.

Once we reached the top we had a beautiful view of the next village Navarrete. This 12th century town was built by the “Knights of the Holy Sepulcher.”

This lovely village is home to the Baroque church called ‘La Ascension.’

At one time the Camino had many pilgrim hospitals. I can easily see why they were needed. Walking the Camino has never been an easy journey.

Today was another long day, but we enjoyed many conversations with fellow pilgrims to pass the time. We all remarked on how few of us were on the trail today. Many left the Camino, but maybe others took a rest day in lovely Logroño.

Our lunch stop for the day and a simple sign to tell us how far we still had to go.

Before reaching Najera we had one more hill to climb then a beautiful view.

On the way down we had this lovely entertainer to enjoy.

Other images from the day.

The last rest stop. Another long day on the road.

Once we had a nice break in our hotel we visited the Monastery of Santa Maria La Real in Najera.

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October 12, 2023

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LOS ARCOS – LOGROÑO

Camino: Day 7

Distance: 28 KM (17.3 miles)

Grand total: 172 KM (106.8 miles)

Weather: sunny, 50-80 degrees

Time on trail: 8 hours counting breaks

We knew we had a long day ahead of us. Thankfully the hotel offered a 7:00 breakfast.

When we entered the breakfast room it was full of fellow pilgrims we had seen & met on the trail over the past week.

We were able to be out on the trail at 7:30.

Sunrise came around 8:20. Our first large village was Sansól.

Followed by Torres del Rio.

Along the path we came across an interesting place that I would call a rock cairn memorial site. Rocks had been stacked with names written on or near each. There was also a tree with tied ribbons.

From this view point we could see Logroño in the far distance. Only 10 more miles to go.

The next village was Viana where we enjoyed a nice break & lunch. Then 6 more miles to Logroño.

Things we saw along the way.

Interesting mural at a lovely picnic spot where a few pilgrims were resting before the final push into Logroño.

With 2.5 miles to go we took a short break and enjoyed a few almonds. Along the route there are many almond trees. A few days ago a man gave us a few that he had found on the ground. It was time to crack some nuts.

Finally in Logrona. Long day and happy to be finished.

A few people we have met are stopping here and going home. It will be interesting to see how many people we recognize tomorrow.

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October 11, 2023

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Estella to Los Arcos

Route Information (We started from Estella)

Camino: Day 6

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: sunny, 54-80 degrees

Time on trail: 6 hours including all breaks

We had our earliest start beginning around 7:40. It was still a little dark when we reached the famous Monastery of Saint Mary the Royal of Irache.

The monastery dates from the 8th century. Next door is the Irache Winery that provides free wine to any pilgrim that passes by.

Along the way you meet many people. Some you pass many times a day as one or the other stops for a break.

On day 3 Jim & I kept passing this woman. Jim starts up a conversation and learns she is from France. We have stayed in the same hotel 3 times. She has now become one of our Camino friends.

She reminds my husband of my mother so we sometimes call her French Georgianne.

A group of Koreans left on the same day as us. So we see them often. Most speak very little English and we know zero Korean. So we wave, smile and say “Buen Camino” when we see each other.

One of the few shady break spots along the route.

This was the last place to stop for food & drinks before we started the long 7 mile stretch to our home for the night.

Getting a wet scarf to wear around his neck. (Drive on rag)

Pictures along the 7 mile stretch.

One of the funny occurrences along the trail is lost men’s underwear. We are guessing they put it on their backpacks hoping it will dry, only to have them fall somewhere along the trail.

Happy to have made it to Los Arcos.

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October 10, 2023

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PUENTE LA REINA – ESTELLA

Camino: Day 5

Distance: 22 KM (13.6 miles)

Weather: sunny, 54-80 degrees

Time on trail: 6 hours including all breaks

We were once again on the trail close to 8:00 and enjoyed the morning sunrise.

The trail is slowly getting better. Less steepness and fewer big rocks to maneuver around. More and more long stretches on gravel trails making it easier to walk at a constant speed.

The old town of Ciraiqui was lovely to walk through.

Outside the town we followed the old Roman road for a short distance.

You can usually find food & drinks to eat in many villages and the bigger towns. But as a pilgrim, there are also a number of people who offer you food for free or a small donation along the trail.

One of my favorite things about Europe are the church bells that chime through out the day.

Other images along the way.

We are making progress. Passed this mileage marker today. They tell you how far it is to Santiago.

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October 9, 2023

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PAMPLONA – PUENTE LA REINA

Route Information (we travel from right to left)

Camino: Day 4

Weather: sunny, 52-83 degrees

Distance: 24 km (15 miles)

Time on trail: 6.75 hours (includes lunch & water breaks)

We left Pamplona close to 8:00. Saw many parents walking their children to school.

Once we left the city we could easily see our route for the next few hours.

The gravel trail took us across dry and freshly plowed farmland.

We then began our gradual climb up to Mount El Perdón. Once at the top you can see Pamplona in the distance and where the path will take you the rest of the day.

At the top, you find one of most photographed locations on the Camino.

Information on the sculpture.

More image along the route.

We arrived in Puente La Reina close to 4:00 pm. I was ready to stop. The last hour continues to be difficult. The mornings seem to fly by. Around 11:00 we had walked over 6 miles that felt easy, but as the day warms and feet become tired you finish on pure will power.

After some rest and a nice shower we enjoyed the end of our day in Puente La Reina. It’s know for its famous Puente Romanesque Bridge built in the 11th century and roasted spicy hot peppers.