The Cyclades Islands – Part 3 – Paros

You could easily take all summer just to tour the Cyclades Islands by hopping from one island to the next on the ferries.

Waiting for the large aft doors on the ferry to open to disembark

Each island is charming in its own ways even though they all have the ubiquitous white buildings with blue framed windows & doors. Another icon on the islands is the paving stones outlined in white accented by intense fuchsia, crimson, or purple bougainvillea bushes. It feels like a summer dream come to life.

On Paros the most charming small town we visited was Naoussa. In many ways, it reminded me of Mykonos, so it’s easy to see why Paros is becoming more popular.

I happend upon one shop that catered to local artists by providing them a perfect place to sell their work. One of the shop’s proprietors was very kind & offered me a small bouquet of local wildflowers while I browsed the shop. I couldn’t resist buying s painted gourd which resembles a chicken.

Like many islands across Greece, Paros has another icon…windmills. Here is a little history about them:

Some windmills have been renovated to cater to tourists. The most famous ones are located in Mykonos; but, Paros has a few nice ones as well.

While on Paros, we stayed in Parikia. Near the ferry boat dock, we visited an amazing Byzantine church called the Panagia Ekatontapiliani or the “Church with a 100 Doors”.

It was built in 326 AD before Constantine the Great proclaimed Christianity as the the Roman Empire’s official religion ranking it among the oldest churches in Greece.

Here is a brief summary about why this church is renowned:

According to legend, the original church was either constructed by Saint Helene herself or Saint Constantine, the first Emperor of Constantinople, after the oblation of his mother.

During her journey to the Holy Land to search for the True Cross upon which Christ was crucified, a storm brought Saint Helene to Paros, where she promised the Virgin to build a church if her quest was successful. According to one story version, her quest was successful, so Saint Helene returned to Paros & built this impressive church. Another legend version claims the church was built by her son Constantine the Great after her death & it was dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin.

The name Ekatontapiliani means the Church with the Hundred Doors. According to tradition, the church has 99 doors & a secret door will open when the church of Hagia Sofia in Constantinople becomes Orthodox again.

Unlike many visitors to the Greek islands, we don’t come for the beaches; but, rather, to enjoy the culture & history.

One day we walked the Byzantine Road which was made from marble over 1,000 years ago. First, we drove to Prodromos from where we walked the old road to & from the attractive hilltop town Levkes. It was about 2.25 miles & took us a leisurely hour and a half to walk it each way. Due to the ravages of time, the road is no longer paved the entire way with marble.

To find the starting point, we enjoyed strolling through beautiful small Prodromos.

The walk is a a great way to enjoy the Greek countryside on a sunny; but, not too hot day.

The marble from Paros is very famous & is known as Parian marble.

We were kind of able to visit the ancient quarries from where this marble was extracted. I say “kind of” because most of it is closed to visitors due to the inherent danger from being in caves which have been mined since the 5th Century BC.

Mining stopped in the 7th Century & resumed for a short time in the 19th Century before stopping for good at this location.

I stopped by a local artist’s shop next to the ancient quarry & bought a few small pieces he had carved from this marble. When you hold it up to the light, it is transparent.

On our last day we took a very short ferry ride to Antiparos for a quick walk around the port town Chora. It’s another lovely typical little island town.

Some years ago, this quiet island known for its laidback vibe caught the eye of Tom Hanks & Rita Wilson. It is reported they have owned a small vacation home here since the early 2000’s.

On drives around Paros, we also saw these lovely scenes.

If you love or even just like cats, then you will be happy in Greece. There are many, many kitties here. They are just part & parcel of what makes Greece be Greece.

Almost every small Greek fishing village comes with two elements. First is the docks for the fishing boats. The second is restaurants lining the harbor. Each restaurant has almost the exact same menu with typical Greek dishes & of course, they offer seafood. So, you basically just pick the restaurant with the seating you prefer.

Another lovely vacation in the Greek Islands ends with a beautiful sunset.

The Cyclades Islands – Part 2 – Naxos

When touring the Cyclades, you can stay on the tourist route that follows the cruise ships along with big crowds that come with them, or take off to an island where the cruise ships don’t go.

We chose the latter option & went to Naxos. Unlike Santorini which gets over 3 million visitors each year, Naxos gets around 600,000 a year. Naxos is also a large island so it can easily handle visitors which enables you to relax far away from maddening crowds.

View from our patio

About a half mile from our hotel was charming Naxos Town which is perfect for strolling around in the old town for shopping & dining.

Near the town you can walk up a short hill called Palatia to see Naxos’ most famous landmark- The Portara.

The Portara is the only remnant from the never- finished Temple of Apollo which was started in 530 BC.

It is the door into the temple & was made from marble quarried on the island.

To see the island at our own pace we rented a car & drove to see the sights.

Temple of Demeter
This temple dedicated to the Goddess of Agriculture Demeter dates from to the 6th Century BC. It was only rediscovered in 1949. Naxos was the first place marble was used in Greece & this temple is the first structure in history built entirely from marble.

Its location is easy to understand because it is situated in a very fertile valley where many crops were & still are grown.

In ancient times Naxos was known for its marble which is still quarried & used worldwide. Kouroi which are are very large human-like statues made from marble are found in several places on the island.

Apollonas is a lovely seaside village where the unfinished Kouros depicting Dionysos is located,

This Greek church named Panagia Drossiani dating from the 6th Century is not only the oldest church on Naxos; but also, in the Balkans.

Naxos is known for its special foods & drinks. Instead of Feta cheese being added to the traditional Greek Salad, here they use a softer version called Naxos Cheese.

We also enjoyed their delicious potatoes that are softer in texture, but many people come to Naxos for the wine.

But, if you need something a little stronger, Naxos has its own special liquor called Kitron.

We enjoyed visiting the Vallindras Distillery in Chalki. This distillery has been owned & operated by the Vallindras family for five generations since 1896.

We spent a few lovely hours in Apeiranthos. This extremely quaint, unique village is made from marble- walls, window frames, steps, & walkways are all marble. As a testament to marble’s durability, some structures date from the 12th Century

We came across a lovely store with very unique pottery, It looks like metal, but is actually clay with a mica glaze finish.

On Naxos’ southern end at Alyko Beach is a huge hotel complex that was started in the 1960s, abandoned in the 1970s during the military dictatorship, & never finished.

It became a draw for street artists from all over the world to tag. Some pieces are quite good whereas many others are not. The place is also covered in graffiti. It’s too bad the hotel didn’t work because it is located near very nice beaches. While there, I kept thinking the ruins would make a perfect location for a movie thriller.

Lovely sunset.

Taking the ferry to the next island.

The Cyclades Island- Part 1 – Unforgettable Santorini

If asked to describe a typical Greek island, many people would say white buildings on a treeless, rocky hillside with blue domed churches. This description is apt for the Cyclades Isles. These charming islands which seem tailor- made for a movie set are why so many tourists come here.

From the 33 inhibited islands in the Cyclades, Santorini (Thera or Thira to the Greeks) is definitely the queen. Over 3 million annual visitors come to see & experience one of the most picturesque locations on Earth. Why not? The pristine white villages seem to pop out against the dark volcanic soil & deep blue Aegean Sea which makes a perfect holiday setting.

With help from the highly supportive tourism industry, each building is newly whitewashed each spring. Here is the history behind this iconic Cyclades appearance:

Most visitors make their way to the island’s westernmost town called Oia (pronounced EE-ah) This is probably the most photographed place in Greece. However, to visit it, you need to be prepared to climb up & down many steps because the houses are built into the vertical mountain side, one on top of the other. Even with the vertical challenge, Oia is well worth the trouble. Every direction you face & every turn you make just begs to have a picture taken to capture every spectacular view.

Remember when we use to say, “This a Kodak Moment”? Well, here a few from Santorini.

For many, being in Oia at sunset is the ideal photo opportunity with its “golden light”.

Santorini is also famous for its volcanic eruption which around 1700 BC & covered the ancient city Akrotiri with ash, much like Pompeii in Italy was. No human remains or valuable jewelry have been found at Akrotiri which means the inhabitants must have known their city was doomed & left before the cataclysm.

The gigantic eruption had a devastating impact on the Minoan civilization in Crete which is 60 miles away. Here is some information about this explosion:

The last lava flow at Santorini was in 1950; but, significant seismic activity occurred this year which means another volcanic eruption could still occur… sooner than later.

Santorini is the remnants left after the explosion.

On this trip, we visited the ruins at Akrotiri & the Museum of Prehistoric Thera museum which contains many artifacts & wall frescos found at the site.

Being on Santorini is always a joy, even though it is a popular stop for large cruise ships. Multiple cruise ships stop at the same time bringing their passengers ashore which causes huge crowds. To escape all this hubbub, on all our previous visits to Santorini & including this one, we enjoy making the 8 mile hike from Fira to Oia.

Here are some images taken on our hike:

We stayed in Oia again; but, instead of staying in an old windmill, this time we stayed in a “cave house” which is dug into into the mountainside. Since it came with a small kitchen, we enjoyed making our own meals which was a nice change.

On our very first visit here, we met a young artist who painted Santorini scenes on old wooden wine barrels & doors. We were happy to see that after many years, she is still here & we purchased more art from her to display at home.

With the artist & her daughter

Cats are everywhere in Greece & add to the ambiance.

On our last night we enjoyed the evening lights.

For me, Santorini is one of the few places that not only lives up to my expectations; but also, always exceeds them. Despite the humongous cruise ships that bring large tour groups, it is still exquisitely lovely. 🥰

3 Greek Islands in 1 Day-Hydra, Poros, & Aegina

Our cruise ship in Hydra
Entering the ship

If you are in Greece & only have limited time & you want to visit the islands, then you can take a one day cruise that goes to 3 islands- Hydra, Poros, & Aegina- in the Saronic Gulf. Since it is only a one day cruise, time is limited on each island which you can choose to see on your own, or take a tour to experience it.

We took this cruise on our first trip to Greece in 1985. It was nice to revisit each place.

Hydra

Hydra is known as one of the most beautiful Greek Islands where starting in the 1950s, various movies have been filmed. This exposure led to many celebrities living here.

Today, the island is more for day tourists & those looking for a quiet place to go on holiday since no cars are allowed there.

With no cars allowed, these horses & mules are among the only transportation on Hydra

Poros

Our next stop was Poros where something unusual happened… IT RAINED. We rarely experience precipitation in Greece. However, Poros is a small island with not too much to see, so the rain did not put a damper on missing too much.

Poros Town harbor

Aegina

Aegina is the biggest island on the cruise. According to myth, Zeus fell in love with Aegina who was a daughter of the River God Asopos. Zeus took her to this island which was named after her.

Aegina has been inhabited since 3000 BC.

We took a tour to see the Temple of Aphaia which was built in 480 BC & is called “The First Parthenon” It is dedicated to Aphaia who was the goddess of fertility & agriculture. This is the only temple ever dedicated to her.

This temple along with the Parthenon on the Acropolis in Athens & the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion geographically form an isosceles triangle which has two equal length sides. On clear days, each temple can be seen from each other which is interpreted as a possible feature for defensiveignaling.

Aegina is also known for its pistachio trees. Pistachio cultivation started in Greece on Aegina in 1860. We had a chance to buy some roasted pistachios from this man. He also gave us some unripe pistachios to try. The shells have not yet hardened so they are soft & still have a “nutty” texture; but, they tasted like a sour grape.

We were entertained by Greek music and dancing during our last hour on the ship.

Sofia, Bulgaria to Athens, Greece

Wild red poppy flowers were in full bloom in the fields from Sofia to Athens
Next to the road

Our adventure by rail from Berlin to Athens is almost complete.

The only part on our journey that we could not do by train was from Sofia, Bulgaria to Thessaloniki, Greece.

So, we boarded a bus, rode a few hours to reach Greece, then spent two days in Thessaloniki.

We have visited Thessaloniki before; but, this time, we enjoyed visiting with one of my husband’s college friends who now lives there.

We also went to the archaeological museum which we had not previously seen.

Thessaloniki was founded in 315 BC by Cassander who named the city after his wife who was Alexander the Great’s half-sister.

Here are a few Thessaloniki highlights we enjoyed.

Thessaloniki is famous for its deserts. Famous Greek American chef Diane Kochilas has this to say about Thessaloniki sweets:

“Cosmopolitan Thessaloniki is also known admirably by its locals as “the sweet mother”, thanks to its longstanding pastry tradition. Almost everywhere you turn, there is a shop selling desserts in every shape & size. Some of Greece’s leading pastry dynasties hail from Thessaloniki. “

Greek entertainers at our restaurant

Then, it was back on the train headed for Athens. Traveling by train throughout most of Europe is very easy & not too expensive. The trains in the former East Bloc countries are a big step down in comfort; but, they get you there & are close to their schedule, when they are running.

The pluses to train travel vs. air travel is more leg room, no security checks, ability to board only a few minutes before departure, no bag weight or size restrictions, or extra fees. What’s not to like about all that! 😊

This is our 10th trip to Greece; but, the first time in May. It is nice to have cooler temperatures in the 70s with beautiful green hills. Plus, the added bonuses are smaller crowds & no fires that often accompany Greece’s summers.

Athens has over 60 museums & many historical locations to explore. We are never at a loss to find things to do as well enjoy revisiting favorite spots around town

One favorite spot is the Changing of the Guard ceremony at Greece’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier at the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma Square. Guard changes occur several times a day; but the main ceremony occurs Sundays at 11:00 AM with the evzones in their formal dress uniforms accompanied by a band.

We toured the Panatheniac Stadium for the first time.

It was originally built in 330 BC. The Romans expanded it to seat 50,000 & refurbished it entirely out of marble. It was used until the 4th Century, then was basically abandoned. It was excavated & renewed in the late 19th Century & hosted the first modern Olympics in 1896. After the Olympic flame is relayed from Olympia, it is transferred to the host country in this stadium.

It is still the only stadium in the world built entirely from marble.

The stadium also has a museum featuring posters from all the Summer Olympics. Here are a few:

Monastiraki Square under the Parthenon on the Acropolis

Once again, another lovely time in Athens.

Let Me Entertain You, Kind Of

Ok, by now most of us who travel to popular destinations have come to expect and enjoy street entertainers. Their talents put a smile on our face, give us a reason to pause and provide a chance to take a fun selfie. Here are my highlights from this summer.

If you love street entertainers, then go to Avignon, France in July. During the Festival d’Avignon the city becomes a hotspot for performers. I’ll be honest, some are fantastic and some needed a little more preparation, but it is still great fun. Starting around noon the walled city looks like a giant costume party. The likes of Snow White and SpongeBob mingle among the tourists while dancers and musician groove to the music. Many are their to promote their local plays or movies, while others are entertainers passing the hat. Its a wonderful way to enjoy an ancient city. My Video: Avignon Street Entertainers

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In Mostar, Bosnia-Herzegovina the talent was more physical than creative. Every summer day starting around 10 in the morning until sunset, you will find young men in their swimming trunks around the Stari Most bridge asking for money. Once they feel they have collected enough money, one of them will jump from the 25 meter (82ft.) bridge. (Keep in mind the Olympic high dive platform is only 10 meters high.) This beautiful old bridge was completed in 1566 during the Ottoman Empire. It was destroyed during the Bosnian War in 1993, but thankfully rebuilt with the original stones and finished in 2004. Young men have been jumping from this bridge for centuries and taking part in an annual competition at the end of July. My Video: Mostar Bridge Jumpers

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My #1 favorite street performer from this summer had no real talent other than just being itself. Along the waterfront in Thessaloniki, Greece I happened upon the a lone elephant. It stood quiet still not saying a word next to a small cardboard box. I looked around to find its owner, but to no avail. Not even a simple sign giving us a name. The elephant came dressed as though it was ready for a parade, but none was scheduled for the day. But it had the best talent of all, it caused me to stop and wonder.

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The next evening as the sun was setting I walked again next to the waterfront wondering if I would once again see the lone elephant. Just as I thought it was a one night occurrence, there was the elephant again. It had found a new spot closer to the statue of Alexander the Great. I must not have been the only person who thought this little elephant was very talented because its box was full of coins!

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