Leipzig is a beautiful place to visit; but, it is not too well known, so, unfortunately, it is missed by many travellers
During WWII most of the city was destroyed; but, thankfully, instead of being leveled, many beautiful buildings were restored to their original appearance.
Under Soviet rule there was little money to rebuild; but, when East & West Germany finally reunited, the citizens realized that rebuilding their city to restore its appearance would be to their benefit.
Here are just a few restored buildings:
BankOld City HallMarket Area & Old City HallNew City HallNew City HallStaircase in New City HallThe New City Hall Tower which is the tallest in Germany
The New City Hall houses many government offices. While walking around in it, we came across the German Green Party office where they offered these postcards to take for free. You will quickly get the idea of what their message is for the voters.
Leipzig is only surpassed by Vienna & Salzburg for musical influence. At one time or another, the most prevalent German composers lived here.
The most famous is Johann Sebastian Bach who is also buried in Leipzig’s St. Thomas Church which was founded in the early 13th Century.
Bach Stained Glass WindowBach’s GraveBach Statue outside St. Thomas Church
Proving that classical music is timeless, many modern musicians have used Bach’s music for inspiration.
Clara & Robert Schumann also lived in Leipzig.
The Schumann home is now museum & a children’s music schoolMarker outside the Schumann House on the Leipzig Music TrailThe main room in which they performed has been fully restored to its original wallsClara’s pianoClara’s travel chest for transporting her possessions during her concert toursClara was on Germany’s old Deutschmark currencyClara was a young piano prodigyCurrent albums featuring the Schumann’s music
Nearby is another children’s music school.
As you walk around the city, you still see many buildings that were built by the Communist government.
The Latin inscription atop this building means “Labor Conquers All” which the Communists used to encourage & extoll their workers
Most people know about the Berlin Wall coming down; but what most people don’t know is a month before, a huge gathering occurred in Leipzig with more than 100,000 people protesting for reforms. This demonstration hastened the Berlin Wall being dismantled.
First night back in Berlin at the historic Brandenburg Gate
Berlin is a fascinating & beautiful city that has changed greatly as its history unfolded. It seems that every step here is filled with history that has many twists & turns.
But, Berlin is so much more than its history. It has the most opera houses in the world, over 180 museums, the most visited zoo in Europe (it is among the few zoos with a panda bear), & the world’s largest outdoor art gallery that is free to see.
For myself, Berlin is special for many reasons. I moved here in 1982 to teach US military children whose parents were stationed in West Berlin.
In 1983, I also met my future husband here.
We lived here until 1986 which was almost right before the Berlin Wall came tumbling down on 9 November 1989.
So, returning to Berlin is always like revisiting our younger selves which is always joyful.
On our first day we went to the housing area where we lived & met 42 years ago. We checked out the many changes in the area. The Allied Museum is now located in the old American library & movie theater.
In the parking lot at our apartment standing at the spot where we first metBerlin Wall & Guard Tower remnants at the Allied Museum
We were in Berlin only for a few days, so we didn’t have time to revisit all the places we loved back in the 1980s; but, we had time to see a few.
In Summer 1985, we took a picture at the wall near Checkpoint Charlie which separated East & West Berlin & my how things have changed.
1986- Corner of Charlottenstrasse & Zimmerstrasse2025- Same street corner
Some places never grow old no matter how often you have seen them in the past.
Checkpoint Charlie- the actual building structure we knew is now displayed at the Allied MuseumReichstag- now Germany’s Parliament building; but, it was still in ruins & empty when we lived hereVictory Column in the TiergartenWinged Victory atop the Victory Column- Berliners call her “Goldelse” which means “Golden Elsie”Kaiser Wilhelm Church- Bombed out church from WWII still stands as a reminder against warThe Kurfürstendamm- it was & still is Berlin’s main shopping streetSoviet War Memorial- This monument was located in West Berlin & was used guarded by Soviet soldiers, so it was “off limits” to all tourists who could only see it from afarThe joke told by Berliners is “Why is the Soviet soldier’s hand & arm hand lowered?” “It is because it is weighted down from all the watches he is wearing after stealing so many from Berliners.”
The Wall was a big part in Berlin’s history from 1961 to 1989. When we lived in Berlin, we never dreamed it would come down, let alone only a few years after we left.
When I first started driving in Berlin, the older teachers at my school always joked about never having to worry about getting lost, saying you will eventually run into the Wall & have to turn around. 🤣
It was true that for us in West Berlin that we were totally surrounded by the Wall. We were allowed to leave at anytime; but, needed a special pass called “Flag Orders” because they had an American flag on them. They were also written in English, French, & Russian which were the languages of the occupying powers- America, Britain, France, & Russia. Flag Orders were necessary to leave & return to West Berlin by car or train.
Flag Orders- Note the Russian stamps to get through Checkpoint Alpha which was on the border between East & West Germany & through Checkpoint Bravo which was the entry point into West Berlin from East Germany Signs by all exits in the American sector in West BerlinThe Brandenburg Gate The brick outline in the street shows where the Wall once stoodMemorial Crosses commemorating people who died attempting to escape into West BerlinMany victims died trying to cross the Spree River which runs through Berlin right behind the Reichstag
The Jewish Holocaust Memorial is located in what we formerly called “No Man’s Land” or the “Death Strip.” This was a wide open space in the East adjacent to the Wall. It is also the area in which Hitler’s Bunker where he committed suicide was located.
Although individual Wall segments are displayed throughout the city, Wall sections still exist in only two places- Bernauer Strasse & Muhlenstrasse
Bernauer Strasse- The way the Wall looked in East BerlinMuhlenstrasse- The way the Wall looked in the West covered in graffiti
The large section at Muhlenstrasse along the Spree River was opened to artist & is calked called The East Side Gallery. 118 artists from 21 countries were invited to paint on the Wall’s plain, unpainted side after it opened. It is now the world’s longest open air art gallery & is a protected memorial.
The most photographed mural is the “Fraternal Kiss” which depicts former Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev & the former East Germany leader Erich Honecker showing some love to each other
As Americans associated with the US military, we had special license plates on our cars so we were not allowed to be searched by the East Germans when entering or exiting East Berlin.
Also, American soldiers were required to be in uniform when going to East Berlin.
However, returning to the former East Berlin area now has no such requirements.
Berliner Dome ChurchAlexanderplatz with the World Clock & TV Tower (This was a major shopping area for us back in the day)Office building with old Soviet Murals extolling labor to encourage Communism & its benefitsOpera House (Under Soviet rule, it was too difficult for us to attend any performance here)Small Music Hall inside the Opera HouseMusic Hall ceilingEnjoyed a beautiful Springtime concert featuring songs from Wagner, Mozart, & Rachmaninoff
When entering East Berlin, you were required to give the American authorities at Checkpoint Charlie the time when you planned to return to the West. Since I didn’t want to get lost, I never ventured too far off the main streets & possibly missing my return time which meant a search party would have been dispatched to find me.
However, with no such restrictions or concerns on this trip, we went to many places we had never previously gone.
Alexanderplatz train stationBebelplatz- Where the Nazis staged their famous book burnings in 1933 Hard Rockers & Punks were in the vanguard leading resistance against the Communist government in East GermanyStasi Headquarters- The Stasi were the infamous & heinous East German Ministry for Security who spied on & policed citizensUnmarked Stasi Van used to arrest people with windowless holding cell in its back Trabant camper displayed in the “Everyday Life in the DDR” exhibit at the KulturBrauerei (Former beer brewery converted into an Arts & Museum space).
At the Stasi archives we applied to see if they even had a file on us. ⁉️🤨
Of course, one of my favorite things about Germany is the BREAD! And then some desserts as well. I like their desserts because most are only slightly sweet.
Chocolate Brandenburg GateRows upon rows of trufflesRaspberry Croissant filled with creamIt’s Easter time!Pie made with Black CurrantBeautiful sunny day means ice cream time Currywurst is a Berlin favoriteKonditorei Buchwald- Berlin!s oldest continuously operating confectionery store since 1852Pretzel VendorBaumkuchen (“Tree Cake”) at Konditorei Buchwald This German cake derives its name from its successive, wafer- thin layers that look like tree rings. The oldest known recipe for this cake dates to 1452 when it was served as a showstopper at weddings.
For the 28 years that the Wall existed, West Germany gave its citizens incentives to live in Berlin such as lower taxes, financial subsidies for having children, & relief from its mandatory military service requirement.
Those policies helped create & encourage Berliners to be unique & a bit quirky. These photos show just a touch of that whimsy. People who look at the world through different eyes are always welcomed here. Hmmm, maybe that’s why I love Berlin so much. 🥰
“Falling in Love” Finale Think Madonna, Lady Gaga, Cirque de Soleil, & a Gay Pride Parade all rolled up into a two hour musical & you can imagine the performance. Almost like a modern Cabaret. It was very Berlin!
Finally, and last but not least, Berlin’s city symbol is the Bear. You see Bear statues all over the city. Here are a few that are displayed. Pick your favorite.