Kyoto, Japan

Kyoto was Japan’s capital for almost 1,000 years and as such, it is totally engrossed in Japanese culture, religion, & beauty.

I recently read that Zen Buddhism did not start in Japan; but, most likely, the Japanese would have created it on their own.

If you lived in Kyoto for a full year & visited 5 temples & shrines every day, you couldn’t see them all.

This was my 3rd visit to Kyoto. The first was in Summer 2004 followed by another in Spring 2005.

Some things have changed in 20 years; but, Kyoto allows a visitor to remember things exactly as they were before with the only difference being the people you see.

However, I did note a couple differences. Kyoto now has numerous Starbucks. One is even located on the Ninenzaka which is the historical road leading to the Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Gion. The other change is that ATMs are ubiquitous which is now true throughout Japan.

On this visit, we chose to return to a few favorite places; but also, to embrace some new ones.

First Time Visits

Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine

(The 10,000 Torii Gate Shrine)

It’s hard not to love this unique shrine. The numerous visitors, both foreign & domestic, attests to this statement.

We got up early to be there by 8:00 AM; but, many other people had the same idea, so there were many people already there by that time.

Fushimi Inari Shrine is famous for its countless torii gates which are offerings by worshippers that cover the hiking trails on wooded Mount Inari.

Torii gates line a winding path for over 2.5 miles up & down Mount Inari.

We reached the top after a 2 hour hike which included many stops to take pictures & visit small shrines along the path.

Kamiji Kakimoto

Japan is well known for their high quality paper & stationery stores. This store called Kamiji Kakimoto dates back to 1716!

I absolutely loved this small store & its very kind shopkeepers. My luggage contains proof that I liked what I found there.

Samurai & Ninja Museum

A very informative small museum. Fun for both little & big boys. 🤣😂

Ichihime-ninja Shrine

(Women’s Shrine)

This small shrine is popular among women. Many women come here praying for protection, blessings for having healthy babies, & for good luck in raising children.

Honke Owariya

The Honke Owariya restaurant is popular with both locals & tourists. It is a small place only open 4 hours daily, so there is always a line to get in; but, it is definitely worth the wait.

Honke Owariya started in 1465 as a confectionary store making & selling soba (buckwheat) rice cakes. It has remained a family- owned business for 14 generations.

By the mid-Edo period (around 1700), Honke Owariya had become both a confectionery shop & was among the city’s main soba noodle suppliers. It also secured the great honor to provide soba to the Imperial household which secured its culinary reputation,

Yes, some soba noodles from their shop are accompanying me home. 🥰

Always Worth Another Visit

Rokuon-ji Temple

Temple of the Golden Pavilion

About a century after Marco Polo’s travels to the Far East during the Muromachi period, shōgun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu purchased & renovated Kitayama-den which was a vast villa located in Kyoto’s northern sector.

He used the villa for official meetings with Chinese traders & also constructed a quiet garden with a gilded reliquary hall, or shariden, which was completed in 1398.

 After Yoshimitsu’s death, in accordance with his will, the villa was converted into a Zen Buddhist temple complex.

Ryōan-ji

The meditative rock garden tradition is prevalent in Japanese culture; but, very few have survived as long & in such perfect condition as the Zen garden at Ryoan-ji.

Constructed around 1500 either by professional gardeners or monks, the meditative scene contains 15 small boulders resting in white gravel bed which is raked into perfect lines each day by the current temple monks.

Nishiki Market

Nishiki Market well merits its nickname as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.” 

It first opened in 1310 as a fish market & has expanded over the centuries to become the best spot for seafood, produce, & local street food in the city.

Gion District

Gion is the best place to see a Geisha. You can also see many Japanese dressed in traditional clothes in this very quaint area. These sightings along with temples & old wooden buildings built in traditional Japanese style makes Gion very popular.

This visit was my third trip to Kyoto & I certainly hope it won’t be my last. There are many other temples, shrines, museums, & restaurants to visit. Also, I need to return in Autumn so I can say I experienced all four seasons in this wonderful city.

Nagano & Snow Monkeys

We enjoyed a Nagano day tour & then went up to the mountains to see the snow monkeys in Jigokudani Monkey Park.

The first stop was at Nishomon Yodhinoya for sake tasting. There we sampled different kinds of rice wine & learned how different qualities were created based on how much of the rice husk was milled off to create the sake. We also enjoyed drinking Amazake which means “Sweet Sake”. It can also be made as an alcoholic drink. The Japanese have been making it since the 3rd Century & it is mentioned in “The Chronicles of Japan” which is Japan’s second oldest book.

Amazake is a sweet, creamy, non-alcoholic drink made from rice which is typically a summer drink; but, Japanese families drink it at dawn on New Year’s Day to ring in the New Year.

We learned the word “sake” actually means all alcoholic drinks in Japan including beer. Rice wine is actually called Nihon-shu.

When we left the sake shop it started snowing. We enjoyed the winter ambiance while visiting the Zenkoji Temple which is a very important Buddhist temple in Japan.

Ritual Offering Made Before Entering the Temple

Pictures are not allowed inside the temple; but, it was a large area to visit & inside you can buy small charms for wishing things such as “good luck, good health, & good fortune.” There are even charms for “good luck on exams.”

Here are a few sights near the temple.

Nagano is known for 2 things- people living the longest here in Japan & its apples. We were told they grow over 40 apple varieties in Nagano.

While waiting for the tour to continue, I enjoyed an apple custard hot pie. It was delish!

We then had an hour drive to the Jigokudani Monkey Park. But, first we had a wonderful Japanese lunch with a traditional hot pot to cook your food at the table along with some veggie sushi & veggie tempura.

After lunch, we had a 1.25 mile walk through the forest to reach the Snow Monkey Park. Thankfully, I had clip-on crampon spikes for my shoes because the path was covered in snow & ice.

The monkey troop has the only monkeys in the world known to bathe in hot springs. This troop has over 150 monkeys. The troop size is large because other than raptors who may occasionally take babies, they have no natural predators on the ground & they are protected in the park.

Japanese macaques (snow monkeys) have the northernmost range of the world’s primates.

Snow Monkey Park was created in 1964 so the Japanese macaques could have a refuge within what was already their natural habitat. The naturally curious monkeys observed humans using the outside onsen hot spring at a nearby guesthouse during winter. The monkeys thought this was a great idea & jumped in the pool. However, the guesthouse owner was not too keen on monkeys fouling his clean onsen.

To keep the monkeys out of the onsen, a special hot bath was created for them inside the park.

In 1970, Life magazine featured the Snow Monkeys on its cover creating a world wild fascination about them & catapulted their onsen into a tourist destination overnight.

Finally arrived after a 30 minute walk.

On the day we went it was very cold so many monkeys were in their special onsen. Our guide said we were lucky to see so many young ones.

Since getting into hot baths is not a natural behavior for monkeys & they only started doing it in the 1960s by copying humans, this is the textbook definition for “Monkey See… Monkey Do.”