PONFERRADA – VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO

[Sorry, didn’t realize this hadn’t been published after day 25. Hope you still enjoy the entry.]

Camino: Day 26

Distance: 24.7 KM (15.3 miles)

Weather: partly cloudy, 45-60°

Time on trail: 7 hours and 50 minutes including all breaks & stops

The day started with a a lovely breakfast including fresh squeezed orange juice, tea, & a Spanish pastry called a Napolitana.

After yesterday’s very long hike which took many hours to descend a steep rocky slope in the rain, today felt like a real gift.

The weather was close to perfect for a fall day. It was mostly flat terrain until the last 5-6 KM.

As we left Ponferrada, we walked past the most perfect castle & a lovely church.

The walk out of Ponferrada was enjoyable, even though it took over 2 hours to reach the countryside.

While we were walking , we had a nice conversation with 2 young Italians. They were doing the entire Camino in 12 days less than us, hiking over 30 KM each day. The woman was actually going faster than the man.

On hearing how fast they were going, we gave them fist bumps. Later they asked how old we were. When we told them 64 & 65, the young man was so surprised he gave us fist bumps! I’ll take the compliment. 🤭

In the first small town we walked through, we came across a popular pilgrim stop. I was very happy to see my friend from Mexico again. It had been 10 days since I last saw her.

Throughout today’s walk we passed pleasant vineyards & quaint villages. We are also now less than 200 KM away from Santiago.

25 days ago, it was over 770 KM to Santiago. Where have all the KM gone?
(I think my feet & legs know)

We also enjoyed many murals & poems today.

The last 1.5 hours before reaching Villafranca del Bierzo was stunning. Vineyards in the fall are spectacular. I took many pictures with both my phone & camera.

Villafranca was once famous in the 15th Century for providing sick & crippled pilgrims with their Pilgrim certificate if they felt they could not make the next 150+ KM to Santiago.

Villafranca is a lovely old town where we enjoyed pizza & Halloween night with the local children dressed up in scary costumes.

Tomorrow is our last 30 KM hiking day. Hopefully, it won’t be too difficult & the rain will stay away until we arrive.

PALAS DE REI – ARZÚA

Camino: Day 32

Distance: 28.1 KM (17.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy, cold, rain, 42-51°

Time on trail: 9 hours 40 minutes counting all breaks & stops

Do you remember this from “My Fair Lady?”

I’m can assure you, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly in the plain. You will notice by our attire, today was blue skies- rain- repeat.

Since the sun was shining this morning, many pilgrims joined the trail by 8:30.

10:30 café con leche & tortilla break

Back on the trail.

Around noon we reached Melide.

Melide is famous for various food items.

And some very unique cheese.

As the story goes:

Melide also has the oldest stone cross on the Camino in Galicia dating from the 14th Century.

With the sun shining, we enjoyed lunch on a city bench in Melide.

Sadly, the sunny weather ended soon after lunch; but, we still enjoyed our rainy afternoon walk.

I was happy to encounter a volunteer stop. There have been far fewer of these in the last third part on the Camino.

With the on & off again rainy weather, it was a relief to arrive into Arzua. For dinner, we enjoyed the best pizza we have had in Spain.

The pizza place had pilgrim graffiti all over its walls. This one caught our eye since we have experienced this problem. But mostly me!! 😆

Happy to have our last long hiking day done before reaching Santiago.

Count down:

2 days until Santiago

6 days until Finisterre