CASTROJERIZ – FRÓMISTA

Camino: Day 15

Distance: 25 KM (15.5 miles)

Weather: very windy-20mph, 45-56° (felt colder with wind chill)

Time on trail: 7. 8 hours including all breaks

The wind blew relentlessly all day only taking a break when we were protected by buildings or high vegetation.

Thankfully though, no rain. So our only choice was to face the wind head on and power through the day.

I was dressed in 5 layers. I was sure I would be taking off my blue rain jacket early in the day, but I was only warm on the uphill climb outside Castrojeriz.

Before we reached the top of Alto de Mostelares we enjoyed a beautiful sunrise.

Everyone stopped for a picture at the top including us.

A few minutes later we saw a beautiful view of the trail across the meseta.

And another picture opportunity even though the wind was so strong you felt you could be blown off the edge at any moment.

The morning light was amazing. As we ascended I had to stop many times to take pictures with my camera. In many ways it reminded me of my youth growing up in the Texas panhandle.

The combination of high winds & bellowing clouds with a flat landscape had me feeling nostalgic.

My husband in the golden light being patient with my picture taking.

The one and only comfort stop today was at a lovely old pilgrim’s hospital and former parish church called San Nicolas de Puente Fitero.

It now serves as a place to sit with other pilgrims with a cup of tea or coffee & cookies.

We had a wonderful time with a couple from Korea, a young woman from China, 3 Scottish women, a Portugués couple and 3 French women before continuing down the trail.

Soon after we crossed this old stone bridge. I wonder how many pilgrims have crossed this bridge over the years?

We are now in the Province Palancia.

Similar sign to Day 10, but further along on the trail.

The next town of Itero De la Vega had some fun & colorful artists to decorate their walls.

Outside an the old ruins of a church I saw this wall & scallop shell. It appears to be very old.

The next town was Boadilla. I had hoped to enjoy a nice cafe con leche & tortilla on this cold windy day, but the whole town was totally quiet. We didn’t find one open bar.

I mentioned to my husband I felt like I was in an old Western movie where the cowboys ride into town and not a single person can be seen. These small Spanish towns in the meseta do look very similar to those old movies.

So we rested by the side of a building out of the wind to enjoy snacks in our backpacks before walking the last 6 KM.

On our way to Fromista our walk took us next to the Canal de Castilla.

It provided a nice path for the end of the day. My husband even located a small shelter someone had made. He said it did stop the wind.

Right before we entered into Fromista we came to some locks for the canal. What an amazing engineer feat this project was for its time!

Saw this sign post as well. My feet have no desire to go further than Fromista today.

Our hotel is across from the street from the very attractive Romanesque church called San Martin. It was first built in 1066. Amazing!

Finding “The Way” on the Camino

The Camino might actually be the most well marked trail in the world. Maps aren’t usually necessary. We mainly refer to ours to know how much further to the next village.

Even though we are doing the popular French Route, we have been told by pilgrims that all the routes are marked in the same way.

Just look for the yellow arrow or scallop shell to find the way. You can also just follow your fellow pilgrims which are usually nearby.

HORNILLOS – CASTROJERIZ

Camino: Day 14

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: rainy & high winds, 49-59°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 20 minutes

2nd Weekly total: 162 KM (100.6 miles)

Grand total: 334 KM (207.5 miles)

We have now survived our first rainy day on the Camino. We started out wearing our rain jackets, rain paints and rain ponchos and never took them off.

The meseta was also true to form by having consistent high winds most of the day and especially the last 1km.

After 2 hours and 40 minutes we were happy to make it to Hontanas for a nice break.

We are making progress.

Not long after Hontanas it started to rain again and never stopped.

About 5 KM (3.1 miles) later we reached the San Anton ruins in the pouring rain.

For years food & drink has been left in these portals for the passing pilgrims. Now a nice volunteer & resting spot is located inside.

The Tau Cross is also shown here.

In the pouring rain and very high winds, we made the last 4 KM (2.4 miles) to Castrojeriz.

Like the sign on the highway. We were happy to be at our hotel.

BURGOS – HORNILLOS DEL CAMINO

Route Information

Camino: Day 13

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: rainy, cloudy & very windy, 57-67°

Time on route: 6 hours including breaks

Burgos was a lovely surprise. We had not expected to find it so interesting and charming. There is much more we could have explored.

With the rain prediction we decided to enjoy a late breakfast and exited our hotel around 8:30. Even though the rain was light, we still thought it was best to put on our ponchos

It is the first large city we have walked through without clear markings for the trail. Thankfully my husband had a guide book that helped us find our way.

Because the Camino is a pilgrimage the trail always takes you by a church.

Beautiful mural behind the cathedral.

In 2021 Burgos had an art exhibit promoting the Camino with 39 silhouettes. We spotted many as we continued to walk through the city. Unlike yesterday’s entry into Burgos, the exit was very pleasant.

I had hoped I would meet people from around the world on this pilgrimage.

As I have mentioned on past postings I have become friends with two young Korean women. We are unable to say much to each other, but always smile & hug when we meet on the trail each day.

I also have a short chat each day with a young woman from Italy and another from Mexico. They are short friendships, but all feel very special.

Others we have only met briefly and always wave when we pass.

We finally have less than 500 KM to go.

We made a cafe con leche & bathroom break in Tardajos.

A short time later we pass through Rabe de Las Calzadas. It was a charming little town filled with colorful religious murals.

We have reached the meseta. A large plateau that covers 81,000 square miles (210,000 sq KM). It is known for its extreme weather. Hot in the summer & cold in the winter. It will take us 9 days to cross it.

I love it’s vast landscape and big sky in spite of the high winds.

Only one more mile to go to reach Hornillos.

The best part about the meseta is that it follows the exact same route used by all pilgrims since Queen Isabella. It will feel like walking within history.

ATAPUERCA to BURGOS

Route Information (We left from ATAPUERCA)

Camino: Day 12 (stage one completed)

Distance: 20 KM (12.4 miles)

Weather: cloudy & windy, 57-70°

Time on trail: 4 hours 40 minutes

Total distance: 293 KM (182 miles)

After a pleasant stay at an old hotel with quaint wood beams and rustic wooden doors we headed for the Camino trail at 8:00.

Thankfully a few fellow pilgrims were leaving at the same time showing us the way in the darkness.

This was our last day in the mountainous-hilly region of the Camino. Tomorrow we will start walking the flat section.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as we reached the Matagrande summit.

At the top we came across this beautiful poem.

Since the pilgrim dominated the mountains of Navarre and saw the vast fields of Spain. She has not enjoyed a more beautiful sight like this.

In the far distance we could see our final destination for the day, the city of Burgos.

Fun sightings

A special thing about walking the Camino is the “Buen Camino,” greeting you receive from fellow pilgrims and the locals. You also see it at homes as you walk along.

Cleaver way to display flowers & recycle garbage.

Small building dating from 1588

After many km/miles walking on the tarmac we approached the outskirts of Burgos, passed the airport & industrial section. It wasn’t my favorite.

We did see this one funny sign.

Ummmm, not sure I want a shower toilet.

Finally reached Burgos after an hour.

Camino signs & other sightings

After our earliest arrival time, we enjoyed doing a little touring of Burgos.

Casa del Cordón, Christopher Columbus was welcomed here by Queen Isabella & King Ferdinand after his return from the second trip to America.

Visiting the Cathedral de Santa Maria was the highlight of Borgos.

It is made up of many small chapels inside with beautiful ceilings. It also contains the tomb for El Cid and his wife.

Just another great day on the Camino.

BELORADO – ATAPUERCA

Route Information (We went on to ATAPUERCA)

Camino: Day 11

Distance: 29 KM (18 miles)

Weather: cloudy with short showers part of the afternoon, 54-65°

Time on trail: 8 hours counting rest stops

Today was our longest distance for walking. I felt good the whole way, but once we arrived at the hotel, my legs & feet were not shy about letting me know it had been a long day.

We left Belorado around 7:50. Too early to see the oldest market.

Unlike most days, we didn’t see a single pilgrim as we left. It wasn’t until much later we started to see people.

We have been friends with 2 young Korean girls from the first day. They have always been strong walkers, but today I saw that one of them now has tendinitis in one of her knees. This seems to be a problem we hear a great deal on the trail. In the beginning it was blisters, now tendinitis.

The trail started out with the same countryside we have enjoyed for many days. Open landscape with rolling hills and freshly plowed land.

This continued for the first 3 hours into Villafranca Montes de Oca.

After that we started a gradual climb up the Montes de Oca that took us into a forest. Years ago this forest was haven for highwaymen & thugs. Thankfully this is no longer a problem.

Before we started we made sure we had food & water because the next town was 7 miles away.

This is also where we experienced rain for the first time and needed to pull out our rain ponchos.

With little more than 3 miles to go before reaching San Juan de Ortega, we enjoyed the best volunteer rest stop on the walk so far. As before, she only asked for a donation.

She was an American country music fan. As we walked up Allen Jackson, “Chattahoochee” was playing followed my Kenny Rogers “The Gambler,” Dolly Parton “9 to 5,” and Toby Keith, “I Love This Bar,” as we were leaving.

Finally reached San Juan de Ortega for a late lunch break and much needed girl’s bathroom.

With only 3 more miles to go we were out of the forest and back into the open landscape.

I’m always entertained by the murals on the homes & buildings on the Camino. Here are some we passed by today.

SANTO DOMINGO – BELORADO

Route Information

Camino: Day 10

Distance: 23 KM (14.2 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 51-70°

Time on the trail: 5 hours 50 minutes including all breaks

Left our hotel around 8:20. With the cool weather all morning we made good progress, averaging a faster pace than on previous days.

The first few days I averaged 1.5 miles an hour. The last few days have been around 2.0 mph. But this morning I actually got up to 3.0 mph!!!

Each morning I wonder if I can walk several miles again, but once on the trail my body falls into a rhythm moving along. It seems to be saying, “Okay, I guessing we are walking now.”

So far few blisters and no tendonitis.

Only time will tell if this will continue. Hopefully yes. Fingers crossed. 🤞

First break spot of the day. For me, a good time for a café con leche & potty break.

Our way out of town.

We passed into the Castilla y León region today.

One way to find the route is to look for yellow arrows painted on buildings, the road and posts.

I often sing the song from the Wizard of Oz ‘Follow the Yellow Brick Road’ changing the words to ‘Follow the Yellow Arrows.’ Only this time the original words work.

More images along the way today.

Many people have written poems or sayings on any flat surface they can find. Here are 2 from today.

Our last rest stop before the last 3 miles into Belorado.

Outskirts of Belorado.

Hotel at last.

Exploring Belorado.

NÁJERA – SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA

Route Information

Camino: Day 9

Distance: 21 KM (13 miles)

Weather: partly sunny & cloudy 56-70 degrees

Time on trail: 5.5 hours including breaks

Our hotel didn’t serve breakfast until 8:00 so we didn’t get started until 8:30.

After 2 long days it felt nice to sleep in a little. Plus the cooler temps felt great.

We were happy to once again see many of our fellow pilgrims along the way that we had missed the day before.

We left walking past the last of the vineyards.

The path then led us over many small hills until we reached Azofra.

The rest of the day we were able to see the path for miles into the distance along with pilgrims moving at their own pace.

It was a beautiful walk with various colors to entertain our eyes. I am never bored. It is interesting to see small groups, families and solo travelers all going in the same direction to Santiago.

We reached our hotel in Santo Domingo around 2:00pm. As always, we rest with our legs up the wall for 20-30 minutes before cleaning up & washing out our clothes. Today I had the luxury of hanging my clothes outside to dry.

The highlight of the day was to visit the cathedral in Santo Domingo.

Read the story below about the miracle of Santo Domingo.

Today you can still see live chickens inside the cathedral.

More pictures from inside the church.

They even have a pastry about the legend.

The bell tower and view from the top. When we looked into the distance we could see the path we came down to enter the city as pilgrims having been doing for centuries.

Logroño to Najera

Route Details

We have left the province of Navarra and entered La Rioja. We noticed fewer directional signs showing distance to the next town and no sign with good details about the route. This is why the above map is now different.

Camino: Day 8

Distance: 28 KM (17.3 miles)

Weather: cloudy, 52-75 degrees

Time on trail: 7 hours & 40 minutes including all breaks

Once again we had breakfast at 7:00 and left the hotel at 7:30.

Logroño is a large town so it took us 20 minutes to leave town. As we entered the La Grajera Park we saw a beautiful sunrise.

Before leaving the park we came across this interesting shop selling traditional walking sticks pilgrim trinkets.

From this point we stared a slow climb through many vineyards. This is Spain’s main wine region called La Rioja.

This long wire fence protecting us from the highway below was decorated with crosses made from sticks.

Once we reached the top we had a beautiful view of the next village Navarrete. This 12th century town was built by the “Knights of the Holy Sepulcher.”

This lovely village is home to the Baroque church called ‘La Ascension.’

At one time the Camino had many pilgrim hospitals. I can easily see why they were needed. Walking the Camino has never been an easy journey.

Today was another long day, but we enjoyed many conversations with fellow pilgrims to pass the time. We all remarked on how few of us were on the trail today. Many left the Camino, but maybe others took a rest day in lovely Logroño.

Our lunch stop for the day and a simple sign to tell us how far we still had to go.

Before reaching Najera we had one more hill to climb then a beautiful view.

On the way down we had this lovely entertainer to enjoy.

Other images from the day.

The last rest stop. Another long day on the road.

Once we had a nice break in our hotel we visited the Monastery of Santa Maria La Real in Najera.

LOS ARCOS – LOGROÑO

Route Information

Camino: Day 7

Distance: 28 KM (17.3 miles)

Grand total: 172 KM (106.8 miles)

Weather: sunny, 50-80 degrees

Time on trail: 8 hours counting breaks

We knew we had a long day ahead of us. Thankfully the hotel offered a 7:00 breakfast.

When we entered the breakfast room it was full of fellow pilgrims we had seen & met on the trail over the past week.

We were able to be out on the trail at 7:30.

Sunrise came around 8:20. Our first large village was Sansól.

Followed by Torres del Rio.

Along the path we came across an interesting place that I would call a rock cairn memorial site. Rocks had been stacked with names written on or near each. There was also a tree with tied ribbons.

From this view point we could see Logroño in the far distance. Only 10 more miles to go.

The next village was Viana where we enjoyed a nice break & lunch. Then 6 more miles to Logroño.

Things we saw along the way.

Interesting mural at a lovely picnic spot where a few pilgrims were resting before the final push into Logroño.

With 2.5 miles to go we took a short break and enjoyed a few almonds. Along the route there are many almond trees. A few days ago a man gave us a few that he had found on the ground. It was time to crack some nuts.

Finally in Logrona. Long day and happy to be finished.

A few people we have met are stopping here and going home. It will be interesting to see how many people we recognize tomorrow.